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Long Board 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: David Quinn 10/94
Page Views: 1,003
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

The rant:
You shouldn't piss on another person's route, and I mean that quite literally.This route ends up briefly on the ledge where Butt Bongo Fiesta (5.13a) begins. Folks hanging out working this popular proj. tend to use the first 1/3 of Long Board as their urinal. WTF. I think they would be pissed (pardon the pun) if I pissed on Butt Bongo.
I was given this disturbing information as I climbed up to the ledge through the first part of the route having found out the hard way. I didn't need them to tell me. Someone said to me you might not want to climb there. That's where everyone pisses.

I love climbing hard routes at Waimea, but I also like to warm up, and this route would be a great climb if folks would pee somewhere else. Word to the wise, climb Long Board after heavy rains or start up on the ledge next to Butt Bongo.

The route:
A really fun interesting moderate route to the top of the beautiful Waimea Wall. Start out up the wide crack to the right of Waimea (5.10d), mostly using face holds rather than the crack, chimney up to the Butt Bongo ledge. From here clip a high bolt on the left wall and climb the crack in the corner jamming or laying back through some hard moves to another good stance. Steep rock leads to the final corner and a killer view.

Location 

Start in the corner/wide crack just right of Waimea (5.10d).Or start from the Butt Bongo ledge to avoid the stink of pee.

Protection 

11 bolts to chains.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 30, 2011

This used to be slightly shorter and easier. On a wet weekend shortly after it was put up, bored climbers dug out about 5 feet of rock at the base atop the pillar and flung them down. They were then used to make the paving and steps of the Greek amphitheater below Waimea, which used to often be a mud puddle.