Spy the thin double crack system that goes over a bulge on white rock above. This is what you aim for and is essentially the second half of the climb.
The first half is largely a crack system that ranges from hands to fingers. A bit mungy still. Where it pinches down, you brave the face up and left using some knobs and flakes until reaching the first bolt (~60' up).
From here, there's a wide crack (where a 4" or 5" piece is handy) and the beginnings of the double crack system. Delicate stemming, high steps, and lie-backs will see you up past the next and final bolt and to the anchors.
SAFETY NOTE: You can just barely top rope with a 70m, so use caution and knot the ends.
Between Dr. Sleep and Ativan Grin. There is a tree growing halfway up that is a bit left of the route and is in the path of the lower off/rappel.
Gear from fingers to 3" with one 4-5" piece. Two bolts en route. Chain anchors.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Oct 7, 2013
I thought this was the best route at this crag (at least that I've been on).