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 ADVANCED
3rd Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ativan Grin T 
Cartwheel T 
Choad, The T 
Dangling Legs T 
Dr. Sleep T 
Halcion Hallucination T 
Into the Groove S 
Long Arm of the Aug T 
Numb Bunion T 
THE DARK HALF T,S 

Long Arm of the Aug 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan Kennedy
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Sep 9, 2013

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Description 

Spy the thin double crack system that goes over a bulge on white rock above. This is what you aim for and is essentially the second half of the climb.

The first half is largely a crack system that ranges from hands to fingers. A bit mungy still. Where it pinches down, you brave the face up and left using some knobs and flakes until reaching the first bolt (~60' up).

From here, there's a wide crack (where a 4" or 5" piece is handy) and the beginnings of the double crack system. Delicate stemming, high steps, and lie-backs will see you up past the next and final bolt and to the anchors.

SAFETY NOTE: You can just barely top rope with a 70m, so use caution and knot the ends.

Location 

Between Dr. Sleep and Ativan Grin. There is a tree growing halfway up that is a bit left of the route and is in the path of the lower off/rappel.

Protection 

Gear from fingers to 3" with one 4-5" piece. Two bolts en route. Chain anchors.


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By Patrick Mulligan
Oct 7, 2013

I thought this was the best route at this crag (at least that I've been on).