Spy the thin double crack system that goes over a bulge on white rock above. This is what you aim for and is essentially the second half of the climb.
The first half is largely a crack system that ranges from hands to fingers. A bit mungy still. Where it pinches down, you brave the face up and left using some knobs and flakes until reaching the first bolt (~60' up).
From here, there's a wide crack (where a 4" would be handy) and the beginnings of the double crack system. Delicate stemming, high steps, and liebacks will see you up past the next and final bolt and to the anchors.
SAFETY NOTE: You can just barely top rope with a 70m, so use caution and knot the ends.
Between Dr. Sleep and Ativan Grin. There is a tree growing halfway up that is a bit left of the route and is in the path of the lower off/rappel.
Gear from fingers to 3" with one 4" piece. Two bolts en route. Chain anchors.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Oct 7, 2013
I thought this was the best route at this crag (at least that I've been on).