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 ADVANCED
Train Tunnel Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Show T 
Black Tie Affair T 
Center Stage and All Alone T 
Long and Hard T 
Outrage S 
Spectacular Spectacle T 
Whirlpool T 

Long and Hard 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: John Kelbel on Aug 10, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Long and Hard topo - Blue line is a Alternative ex...

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Description 

A good long line traversing the major ledge system on overhanging train tunnel wall.

1. Climb up the blocks and left facing corner to a 3’ long protruding drill rod, seen from the ground. Continue up the corner to a stair casing ledge system. Follow the ledges to the right and belay at the top of “Center Stage and All Alone”.
2. Climb a slab up to another ledge and continue up the corner and through the Off-width to a ledge.
3. Move right across the ledge to its end at a large left facing corner. Follow the corner up to a grassy wide ledge with trees.
4. From here there are several different ways to finish, here is one. Move straight up underneath the overhanging alcove to access a ramp moving up and left. Continue across the upper large ledge all the way to a massive square block and squeeze behind it or climb over it.
5. Finish the last half pitch of “Spectacular Spectacle”. Climbing the right diagonaling broken crack line on the left side of the massive square block about 5.8 and 25 feet long. Ends with a grate view on the outer corner of the train tunnel wall.

Location 

Left side of the train tunnel wall, 10 feet or so right of the corner at a square block.

Protection 

Standard rack. All belays are gear anchors. Watch for loose rock on pitch 3, the climbing is easier here and your belayer should be out to the left side from where you are climbing.


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