Long and Hard  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  John Kelbel on Aug 10, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Long and Hard
topo - Blue line is a Alternative ex...

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Train Property MORE INFO >>> While the climbing at the cliff is allowed (get a permit in town) accessing the "pit" via the steel ladder may not be. If climbing here keeping a low profile in the pit (stay off the rim of the pit) is recommended. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A good long line traversing the major ledge system on overhanging train tunnel wall.

1. Climb up the blocks and left facing corner to a 3’ long protruding drill rod, seen from the ground. Continue up the corner to a stair casing ledge system. Follow the ledges to the right and belay at the top of “Center Stage and All Alone”.
2. Climb a slab up to another ledge and continue up the corner and through the Off-width to a ledge.
3. Move right across the ledge to its end at a large left facing corner. Follow the corner up to a grassy wide ledge with trees.
4. From here there are several different ways to finish, here is one. Move straight up underneath the overhanging alcove to access a ramp moving up and left. Continue across the upper large ledge all the way to a massive square block and squeeze behind it or climb over it.
5. Finish the last half pitch of “Spectacular Spectacle”. Climbing the right diagonaling broken crack line on the left side of the massive square block about 5.8 and 25 feet long. Ends with a grate view on the outer corner of the train tunnel wall.

Location 

Left side of the train tunnel wall, 10 feet or so right of the corner at a square block.

Protection 

Standard rack. All belays are gear anchors. Watch for loose rock on pitch 3, the climbing is easier here and your belayer should be out to the left side from where you are climbing.