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Lonestar
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 0.8 from 5 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Chapman & Neal (April 2013) |
Page Views: | 1,203 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Benjamin Chapman on Apr 29, 2013 |
Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: 1. RAIN & WET ROCK 2. DANGER OF EROSION
Details
1. Texas Canyon is conglomerate that is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp, then do not climb.
2. The south end of the First Corridor is in danger of collapsing at the base of Sophie’s Choice. A dam of rocks and soil has been built to divert water away from the eroding soil underneath these huge boulders. Please help keep this system in place until a more permanent solution is implemented.
2. The south end of the First Corridor is in danger of collapsing at the base of Sophie’s Choice. A dam of rocks and soil has been built to divert water away from the eroding soil underneath these huge boulders. Please help keep this system in place until a more permanent solution is implemented.
Description
Lonestar is tucked away behind some bushes and off trail on the west face of the Elephant's Head. The route is steep and the features sharp, but the moves are all there. Boulder up on a shallow pockets and a cluster of large inclusions to a high first bolt. Continue up on good pockets and after clipping the second bolt, traverse right and up on shallow pockets and a greenish inclusion/rail to the bulge. Surmount the bulge on small, but positive pockets and inclusions. A throw to a deep, but sharp pocket leads to the top. Continue pulling pockets and inclusions to the slab and the anchor.
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