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Jimmy Cliff
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Lonesome Dove 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1989
Page Views: 13,842
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (259)
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Erik T. enjoying a crimptastic crack
By: Makenzie ...

Description 

Lonesome Dove climbs the blunt arete on the right side of the cliff. It is a fairly sustained slab route. I thought the crux was right around the second or third bolt. Above this, the climbing remains sustained, working up small edges and small holds. The last moves getting to the anchors are interesting. You can either go the right and undercling a large flake or use an easy crack system to the left. Fun route that is worth the wait.


Protection 

7 bolts



Photos of Lonesome Dove Slideshow Add Photo
John boy on on lonesome dove.
John boy on on lonesome dove.
By: Makenzie B.
By: Makenzie B.
Technical slab of lonesome dove
Technical slab of lonesome dove
Michael Levato on Lonesome Dove. Photo by Joseph Lascurain
Michael Levato on Lonesome Dove. Photo by Joseph L...
awesome route
awesome route
Ethan leading up Lonesome Dove
Ethan leading up Lonesome Dove
Casey pointing out some beta on opening day '08.
Casey pointing out some beta on opening day '08.
Rock on Kat!
Rock on Kat!
Ethan on Lonesome Dove
Ethan on Lonesome Dove
Hilary sending the funness of Lonesome Dove.
Hilary sending the funness of Lonesome Dove.
Climber on Junco, Lonesome Dove follows the rope on the right.
Climber on Junco, Lonesome Dove follows the rope o...
lily slapping for the finish
lily slapping for the finish
chloe
chloe
chloe again
chloe again
First climb of the day.
First climb of the day.
lily on lonesome
lily on lonesome
amazing must do best 10 at rumney!
amazing must do best 10 at rumney!
Comments on Lonesome Dove Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 6, 2013
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 12, 2008

WOW, always classic always fun... one of the best routes of its grade... ive climbed it more times than i can imagine and its still better every time...

By GMBurns
Jul 15, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

I found this to be softer than 10a, but it is still a very nice climb (and I know people will disagree with my rating, so assume it is 10a until you get on it yourself).

By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Jul 16, 2008

Alan told me that he originally climbed the route with only 2 bolts and trad gear, and that he called it 5.9. I would disagree with the PG rating however, I don't think there is an elevated state of risk.

By Maura
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Sep 16, 2008

A beautiful line to finish up a long Rumney day. The exposure is awesome... Climb it at sunset and when you clip the chains, turn around... You'll be blown away by what you see!

By christopher adams
May 31, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This would get 5.8+ at the gunks. That doesn't take away from the fact that it's a really nice climb. 4 stars from me.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 2, 2009

i was wondering does the grade change depending on where you go at the end? i went right to the undercling cuz i didnt see the cracks lol but it felt like the crux to me.... would that make it 10b? or is it 10a going right and easier going left?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 2, 2009

no mike thats the standard way to finish... i see the left as an easy out...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 16, 2009

i had heard that this line was a trad route before it got bolted... to try to get the full experience i led it on gear today, i found it to be attention getting even though i've done it a TON of times... Small and sometimes tricky gear... Nice job old schoolers, bad ass...

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 16, 2009

lee My friend and I have been eyeing a gear ascent of Lonesome after having done one on The Junco. Glad to hear some first hand experience about it.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 17, 2009

A few more points E if you want em...i did junco on gear just before doing Lonesome... as with Junco the gear is there but not nearly as much or as good as you would think in some spots... at about the halfway point a couple of small nuts protect the second hard bulge.... id say just take your time finding something good before moving on and expect PG13 climbing.... have fun and let me know how it goes...

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 17, 2009

Thanks again Lee. I was expecting micro wires and possibly opposed stoppers and few cams. We'll see if I get around to it, may be a fall project since I'm moving north.

By S. Neoh
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Nice to see people still do the original, right hand finish; much better and harder than the 5.4 left hand slabby finish which was 'added' long after the FA. FYI - the route was a mixed route when I first did it in the early 1990's. The first glue-in was not there and a somewhat tricky cam placement was needed to protect the tricky (for the grade) first moves.

By Devin Krevetski
From: West Woodstock, VT
Sep 18, 2010

I don't think sustained is the word I'd use to describe the route. There are a few thought provoking spots that will give pause, but definitely not "sustained" in my opinion.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 20, 2012

I don't climb 10 well, but got up this no problem. Usually I get pumped, so another vote for this not being sustained. Spectacular moves! Easily the best Rumney climb I've done to date.

By Brady Callahan
From: Lyndonville, VT
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Loose undercling flake near the top, watch out for it when you get there.

By S. Neoh
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

LOL, I too did this route today again. The undercling flake in question is definitely loose and flexing badly when I tested it. The right hand finish still goes without it but it is a little harder. Someone had out an "X" on this flake, so take notice.

By thomasg
Jul 2, 2012

Great route, didn't notice the flake, will check next time!

By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Aug 19, 2012

I have a feeling that I'm about to get ripped into, but I've done this a few times and it's just ok IMO. Overrated in relation to some of the other 10s at Rumney.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 20, 2012

i wont rip in to you :)
but do you like other low angle face climbs? or is it just a style you aren't in to... i can respect that for sure but it is a very good example of low angle face IMO...

By James Otey
From: NH
Oct 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Repeated this last week, and I think it solidified it's place as my favorite 5.10 at Rumney

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 31, 2013

Can't say enough how great the view is on top of this one.

By Jon Hollander
Jul 1, 2013

This is now one of my favorite climbs. After having sent it a couple times it flows so well and every single move on the climb is fun. I would be happy climbing this every time I'm at Rumney. I think at some point I'd love to try plugging gear in while still clipping all the bolts just for practice since I'm not doing trad at that level.

By J Meagher
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I know I say this just about every time I go to rumney... But this is by far the greatest climb i've ever done. I love how theres kind of a rhythm to this route: you do a tough, committing move or two, then gain a good rest. I dont think theres any real crux on this, each move is tough and thought provoking. Beautiful rock, perfect moves, plenty tall, and an incredible view make for a perfect face climb! Too bad theres no five star rating on mountain project :(

By S. Neoh
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I agree with the nice rock and great view attributes of this climb but everyone owe it to themselves to do the four v.good/great 5.10 at the Main Cliff (Millennium Falcon, Underdog, Polly Purebred, Stairway to Heaven) and the three at Bonsai (Peer Pressure, Centerpiece, Masterpiece).

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Let me add to the applause for Lonesome Dove. It's just a great route. The line is pure (going up the arete most of the way), there are two cruxes (the start on the corner, and the thin bit about two thirds of the way up), and there are interesting moves all the way (including the direct finish, straight up). In the previous comment, S. Neoh recommended some other 5.10's at Rumney. He mentions some good climbs, but they are completely different in nature. The Dove is not an overhanging jug-haul (like so many Rumney 5.10's), and it requires balance and technique. It's a more subtle route than a route like Underdog, and it follows a much more aesthetic line. It even gets to the top of the crag! If you enjoyed the Dove, and you weren't climbing at the top of your skill level, definitely try Hammond Organ right next door. It's a climb in the same spirit, and it's not that much harder.

By S. Neoh
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Nick, you have made some valid points. To each, his/her own I suppose.
Be sure to get on Millennium Falcon and Stairway to Heaven, both have quite varied climbing, and not just jug hauling. I should also mention Romancing The Stone, Citrasolve, Black Dog Crack, and Smokestack. All pretty good and technical. And if you enjoy smearing and insecure stemming try Goldbug (P1) and Know Ethics.

By Joel F
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very fun route! Gets somewhat thin at a few spots. Solid 5.10a. Definitely deserving of it's 3 star rating.