Lonesome Dove 

WOW, always classic always fun... one of the best routes of its grade... ive climbed it more times than i can imagine and its still better every time...

I found this to be softer than 10a, but it is still a very nice climb (and I know people will disagree with my rating, so assume it is 10a until you get on it yourself).

Alan told me that he originally climbed the route with only 2 bolts and trad gear, and that he called it 5.9. I would disagree with the PG rating however, I don't think there is an elevated state of risk.

A beautiful line to finish up a long Rumney day. The exposure is awesome... Climb it at sunset and when you clip the chains, turn around... You'll be blown away by what you see!

This would get 5.8+ at the gunks. That doesn't take away from the fact that it's a really nice climb. 4 stars from me.

i was wondering does the grade change depending on where you go at the end? i went right to the undercling cuz i didnt see the cracks lol but it felt like the crux to me.... would that make it 10b? or is it 10a going right and easier going left?

no mike thats the standard way to finish... i see the left as an easy out...

i had heard that this line was a trad route before it got bolted... to try to get the full experience i led it on gear today, i found it to be attention getting even though i've done it a TON of times... Small and sometimes tricky gear... Nice job old schoolers, bad ass...

lee My friend and I have been eyeing a gear ascent of Lonesome after having done one on The Junco. Glad to hear some first hand experience about it.

A few more points E if you want em...i did junco on gear just before doing Lonesome... as with Junco the gear is there but not nearly as much or as good as you would think in some spots... at about the halfway point a couple of small nuts protect the second hard bulge.... id say just take your time finding something good before moving on and expect PG13 climbing.... have fun and let me know how it goes...

Thanks again Lee. I was expecting micro wires and possibly opposed stoppers and few cams. We'll see if I get around to it, may be a fall project since I'm moving north.

Nice to see people still do the original, right hand finish; much better and harder than the 5.4 left hand slabby finish which was 'added' long after the FA. FYI - the route was a mixed route when I first did it in the early 1990's. The first glue-in was not there and a somewhat tricky cam placement was needed to protect the tricky (for the grade) first moves.

I don't think sustained is the word I'd use to describe the route. There are a few thought provoking spots that will give pause, but definitely not "sustained" in my opinion.

I don't climb 10 well, but got up this no problem. Usually I get pumped, so another vote for this not being sustained. Spectacular moves! Easily the best Rumney climb I've done to date.

Loose undercling flake near the top, watch out for it when you get there.

LOL, I too did this route today again. The undercling flake in question is definitely loose and flexing badly when I tested it. The right hand finish still goes without it but it is a little harder. Someone had out an "X" on this flake, so take notice.

Great route, didn't notice the flake, will check next time!

I have a feeling that I'm about to get ripped into, but I've done this a few times and it's just ok IMO. Overrated in relation to some of the other 10s at Rumney.

i wont rip in to you :)
but do you like other low angle face climbs? or is it just a style you aren't in to... i can respect that for sure but it is a very good example of low angle face IMO...

Repeated this last week, and I think it solidified it's place as my favorite 5.10 at Rumney

Can't say enough how great the view is on top of this one.