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The Ranch Hand
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Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kevin Stricker, Dave Montgomery, Mike Morin
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 29, 2013

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Kevin leading the FA.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a good route that climbs better than it looks from below. Originally, this was done as a 70m pitch. The first pitch is the better of the pitches by a bit.

P1. Ascend the second from the right of the steep dihedrals. From the ground, this appears to be a groove, but closer up it is a subtle, right-facing dihedral. A couple bulgy sections require good stemming to make it moderate. Above the dihedral, the climbing eases, but the protection options fade. Belay at a ledge near a boulder-like knob, 5.8 PG-13, 150'.

P2. Continue upward on grittier lower-angle face to the top. It is a bit runout, but the difficulty is low, 5.4 PG-13, 150'.

Walk off northward, and downclimb a ramp system (4th class) on the right. Hike down the forested slopes back to the base. Apparently, there are some old bolts somewhere up there, too.

Location 

This is on the right side of The Ranch Hand. It starts off 60 feet left on a ledge above a low-angled slab where you hop a big dead log onto the ledge. Currently, it appears to be the 3rd from the right of the routes here.

Protection 

A rack to a #3 Camalot works.


Photos of Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon Slideshow Add Photo
Dave transitions from the dihedral to the face above.
Dave transitions from the dihedral to the face abo...
Doug goes up P2 to the top.
Doug goes up P2 to the top.

Comments on Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon Add Comment
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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jul 30, 2013

We originally did this route in 1 pitch to near the top with a 70m rope.