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Lonely Challenge Wall

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Broken Dreams T 
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Lonely Challenge Wall  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Boissal on Jun 22, 2009

81° | 67°

79° | 47°

68° | 51°
Labor Day

77° | 52°

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80° | 56°
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The approach to Lonely Challenge Wall looks like t...


The east-facing Lonely Challenge Wall sits near the top of the Standard Ridge area, hard to spot and protected by a heinous scree field.
The crowds are non-existent there, most climbers getting distracted on the approach by the slew of classic routes on Challenge Buttress or Strone Crag.
Those who ignore the sirens and reach the tall expanse of dark quartzite will encounter a handful of stunning routes with old-school bolting and widely spaced gear: a two-pitch warm up, a classic thin-face line, and a desperately smooth test piece.

Getting There 

Make your way toward the west face of Challenge Buttress. Avoid the urge to get on Hollow Man and start the painful hike straight up the talus between Challenge and Strone Crag aiming for a narrow corridor infested with ferns on the east side of the Standard Ridge.
Just above the gap between Strone Crag and Standard Ridge you'll pass a lone 2-bolt route. Don't stop, you're almost there! Another 100' and you might spot a lone bolt 40' up a chossy/mossy face: that's Broken Dreams.
Further up the gully is a huge chokestone that protects the access to the upper wall.

Climbing Season

For the Big Cottonwood Canyon area.

Weather station 0.4 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lonely Challenge Wall:
Lone Man Running   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Zen and the Art   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Lonely Challenge Wall

Featured Route For Lonely Challenge Wall
Broken Dreams

Broken Dreams 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Lonely Challenge Wall
Pitch 1: Gingerly make your way up the blocky face to a lone bolt about 30' up, then climb straight up toward a ledge (below a roof) passing the occasional placement. The rock is a lot more solid than it looks but quite slippery due to a layer of lichen. It's probably a good idea to test holds before yarding on them as you're usually a long ways above your gear.Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a spacious ledge.Pitch 2: Head out left on a brushy ledge to gain a broken crack system (the b...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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The Lonely Challenge Wall. Broken Dreams ascends t...
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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Aug 30, 2012
Here is the deal on the approach: After casually walking from your car on nice worn dirt trail to the hollow man area, proceed to roll your ankle 20 times as you thrutch and fall your way up the talus jungle. Once you've done this for about 200 yards at a steep angle, enter the gully where thick bushes, wet moss, and more talus await you. Lieback the wet chockstone crack with your slick muddy shoes on smooth quarzite with death rocks below you, then mantle onto the top where, you guessed it, more loose talus awaits you. Then find a comfy belay spot among the amazon rainforest of thistles that are growing out horizontally from the 50 degree sloping loose dirt gully below the climb. Enjoy the climbing, then get excited to either rap the small insecure tree or downclimb the wet chimney! Note: you will kill someone if you don't have a helmet.

Moral of the story: a year from now, when thinking about this experience, the only thing you won't remember is the quality climbing.
By zoso
Aug 30, 2012
You can do worse.

It's not THAT bad.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 30, 2012
I'm surprised to see this comment from Spencer.
From your comments on here it seems like you've been getting after it with a general disregard for stars/ratings/etc and plain crushing wherever you go.
The approach blows dongs for sure but the climbing certainly beats the pile. I'd probably go in from Standard Ridge if I went back up there.
By tenesmus
Aug 30, 2012
I think its called 'Lonely' for a reason.
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