Lone Pine Tree Direct 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | Bryan Gall on Jan 1, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Lone Pine Tree climbs.
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Description This route is on the face furthest left on the east side of No Name Creek. It is down and to the left of the Pink Face. It is the direct line up to a lone pine tree anchor (hence the inventive name) which is reached by an easy fifth class move off of the trail up to a spacious belay ledge. The splitter line straight up from the ledge has some great thin hand crack moves. Some insecure thin hands can make this route a challenge for gear placement; I wouldn't recommend it for a first 5.10 lead. Great afternoon sun exposure.
Protection Standard granite rack (it really eats up stoppers).
No Name - Lone Tree Wall.
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| Comments on Lone Pine Tree Direct |
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By Phil Lauffen From: Louyuppie Jun 8, 2009
| Got hailed off this yesterday and had to leave a bail nut and biner. Also while cleaning I could not for the life of me get a shallow RP out of the seam about where it turns tricky. Sorry about making this more of a sport climb :( Someone go up there and grab those! |
By martinharris From: Glenwood Springs CO Apr 28, 2011
| Super fun, I wussed out and tr'ed this one but wish to lead it next time. When the crack disappears, you gain great edges to keep it from getting to gnarly. Did I mention finger locking goodness? |
By Jason Kaplan From: Glenwood ,Co May 5, 2012
| Tried to onsight this today and had my ass handed to me. Fell on a small RP, hang dogged, ran it out, and thought I was gonna take the biggest whip of my life. Hard to place the gear on this one, humbled. |
By Jeremy Joseph From: Glenwood Springs, CO Nov 8, 2012
| So, I got chased off the wall by wasps after placing one piece of gear. Went back after the sun went off the wall, and they were gone. So watch out for them in fall! Led the route after a few times top roping over the previous year. Placed lots of smaller cams and one big stopper. Felt a lot easier on lead then top roping for some reason...maybe a good day. Led it in twilight as the sun was going down in early november. |
By Michael Schneiter From: Glenwood Springs, CO Nov 19, 2012 rating: 5.10
| Yeah Jeremy, there are often wasps in that area which are quiet and relatively unseen when it is cold or shady, but when it's sunny and warm out they come out. Sometimes it can be a little adventure tiptoeing around the wasps when they are hanging out in the cracks on a chill day. |
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