Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lonely Challenge Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Dreams T 
Lone Man Running T 
Zen and the Art T 

Lone Man Running 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bret & Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: Boissal on Jun 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Featuring amazing thin-face climbing on smooth quartzite, this route will keep you on your toes through 70' of bolt-protected edging and smearing followed by 40' of runout 5.8.

The climbing is sustained .10 until the 4th bolt where the .10d crux awaits and will send you wandering around for a while, trying to piece together a line of tiny edges and tenuous smears.
The odd horizontal crack provides a much needed rest as you make your way to the piton then angle right and launch up the exciting upper face.

The climbing eases up to 5.8ish but will keep your attention due to its runout nature; the route will attempt to thwart you one last time with a roof before you can top out one of the best 110' chunk of stone out there...

Location 

The left bolt line, situated at the head of the fern-filled gully above the chokestone. There's a nice flat boulder to belay at the base which saves you from standing around in stinging nettle. The route can be framed by two seeps after heavy rainfall. You can get by without getting wet.

You can make it down this route with a 70m. The rope runs over sharp edges so you might want to rappel instead of being lowered.
The slings on the anchor are in acceptable condition.

Careful in the gully, there are lots of loose rocks held together by soft dirt and everything you kick will roll a ways down...

Protection 

4 bolts and a piton on the lower face.
The 4th (crux) bolt is a 1/4" spinner and not too confidence inspiring, especially considering the amount of ground you need to cover to get to the piton. A crack to the left will eat a large nut to protect the touchy moves above the crux. After the pin it's a long ways to the next opportunity for gear.
Micros, small nuts and a #2 will help you keep it together on your way to the 2 bolt anchor.


Comments on Lone Man Running Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -