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Echo Rock - South Face
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Belgian Chongo T 
British Airways T 
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 
London Calling T 
Moment's Notice T 
My Idea of Fun S 
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 
Pope's Crack T 
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 
Primal Scream T 
Raked over the Coles T 
Roof, the T 
Rule Britannia T 
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 
Street Sweeper S 
Swept Away T 
T.S. Special T 
Tucker-Powell T 

London Calling 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Mark Hoffman, April 1993
Page Views: 1,563
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 1, 2002

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At the Crux. Copyright 2003, by Randy V.

Description 

This route starts down and right of British Airways. A small cam protects hard moves getting to 1st bolt. The crux move is getting past the 1st bolt (very technical moves - 5.11c). Above 2 more bolts protect face climbing on big plates (a bit loose) up and then left to join British Airways at its 1st bolt. Finish up British Airways (you do the crux of it as well). Would give it only 2 of 5 stars. Rap off.

In the photo, the lower section is hidden by the boulder; crux is reaching over the small roof you can just see.


Protection 

5 bolts (2 of which are on British Airways) 3/4" to 1" cam to protect getting to 1st bolt



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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 22, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A fun route which has a short, well-protected crux down low, an easy middle section and another crux at the top. After mantling the flake at the start technical and insecure moves lead out right via improbable smears, liebacking as well as underclinging the roof to reach a nice jug at the second bolt. Above easy (5.9) climbing leads up and left to join British Airways for it's always thrilling finish. Three stars out of five.

By Ben H
Oct 25, 2010

The 3rd bolt looks as though it has sustained a pretty severe fall. It is partially pulled, and bent pretty significantly.

Extend draws to reduce rope drag while pulling the exit moves of British Airways, or its a unpleasant finish or the British Airways flight.

The bottom is really gritty, but overall a pretty fun route.

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Oct 25, 2010

Ben H...that bolt was crappy since the day it was placed....it's a 5/16" buttonhead, and it started to bend over when I hammered it in....I planned to fix it someday, but haven't yet.....oops.....it's probably bomber, but it looks funky....

By Ben H
Nov 8, 2010

toddgordon, thanks for that info. It actually looks like someone might have mashed that 3rd bolt in a little further recently? I saw it at a distance from British Airways a couple days ago, and it maybe? looks better than it did when I clipped it two weeks ago.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Jan 21, 2014

Has anyone tried linking this into Rule Britannia? Seems like a pretty logical line. Bad rock quality makes the traverse to the right seem problematic.