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Lollipop Guild 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: SA, MC '94
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: Joseph Stover on Jun 18, 2006
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Description 

Hard start and sustained climbing. There is a crux on the top half just before the last bolt.


Location 

2nd to last route on main wall. Starts on black stained rock left of tree.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain + rap anchor



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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 18, 2006

Take a short wrench and it would be hard to over tighten the nut. Take some super glue and put it on the threads and it will stay tight for a while.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 25, 2006

I forgot to bring a wrench today so the 4th bolt may still be loose. I won't get a chance to go back for at least a month or so, so if someone plans to climb this route, please try to tighten the bolt.

By jbak
Jun 26, 2006

Standard pack items: locktite...wrench...

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 18, 2008

There may not be a single move harder than 10c but the sequency and sustained nature of this route makes it feel harder than many 10+s

Also, it's right in the water stain, so it'll be one of the last routes to get truly dry if it rained the night before.