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L'Olla

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Bistec de Biceps S 
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La Cara Que No Miente S 
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Tagediebe S 
Valga'm deu quin Patar  S 
Ya Os Vale S 

L'Olla  


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Elevation: 2,300'
Location: 41.2661, 0.93679 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
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Enjoying warm winter sun on "Ya Os Vale", 5.12d, a...

Description 

The famed Sector L'Olla is Siurana's power headquarters; the place to come for those in search of short & fierce roped bouldering. Many famous power routes reside in the tiny tufa-studded cirque at the center of this cliff, most notably "La Cara Que No Miente" (8a+) and "Bistec de Biceps" (7b+). Both routes were featured in the legendary Eric Pearlman series "Masters of Stone". Despite the stunted height of this cliff, this is undoubtedly some of the nicest limestone at Siurana, offering amazing sinker pockets, frustrating wide tufas, and beautiful orange and blue streaks. The central cirque overhangs a good 30 degrees, making all of these routes burly & gymnastic. This is also what Ron Kauk would call a "ropebag-free zone", meaning the cliff-base is free of dust & other debris.

Despite its reputation, there is a little something for everyone at this crag, with some of the best 5.11s around, such as "Mayling" and "El Caganer", located on the right end of the cliff. There are also a handful of standard-length sport climbs on the far left end of the cliff, including the classic 8b "Migrany". In total, there are ~35 routes ranging in grade from 6b (5.10+) to 8b (5.13+).

This crag gets a bit more shade than other places at Siurana, due to its location tucked in the back of the canyon. The entire cliff is shady until ~11am. Ya Os Vale & routes to the left stay shady for another hour or so, and then the cliff is in full sun until the afternoon, when the Siuranella cliff provides a bit of shade in the winter, starting at around 2pm.

Getting There 

L Olla is part of the same general cliff band as Espero Primavera. Park and approach as for Espero Primavera, but continue west along the cliff base trail. The trail descends, and passes around an enormous detached pillar. Stay right after the pillar, passing below the El Pati cliff, and its famous testpiece šLa Ramblaš. Stay right at all of the trail forks, eventually gaining a high extremely exposed ledge. Continue along the ledge to a beautiful steep cirque of short, tufa-ed sport routes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.6 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for L'Olla:
Mayling   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   
Bistec de Biceps   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 45'   
Browse More Classics in L'Olla

Featured Route For L'Olla
A German climber struggles to rest after the end of the primary difficulties.

Bistec de Biceps 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Europe : Spain : ... : L'Olla
This beastly power route is among the most classic routes at Siurana, and according to 8a.nu, it is THE most popular (at least it appears on more scorecards than any other). The business is no more than 10 feet of difficult cranking, but it packs quite a punch in those 10 feet. How can such a short route be so classic? The rock is excellent, the moves are fun, and believe it or not, this is one of the longest routes at this sector, which has some of the best rock anywhere. Reach for the horiz...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of L'Olla Slideshow Add Photo
L'Olla is famous for this small cirque of brilliant power climbs.  The gray tufa at center is Pota d'elefant, the orange chalky tufa to the right is "La Cara Que No Miente", and the fixed draw in the upper right hand corner is on "Bistec de Biceps".
L'Olla is famous for this small cirque of brillian...
L'Olla lies in the back of the valley.
L'Olla lies in the back of the valley.
The left side of L'Olla.  These routes begin on a lower tier, and are approached via an exposed traverse of the lower ledge.  Classics here include "Migranya" 8b, and the one move wonder "Peixa", 7c+.
The left side of L'Olla. These routes begin on a ...
The right side of L'Olla, including the right-half of the central cirque.  The climber is on "Tic I Toc", 8a+.  The approach trail for the 'Left Side' is visible at the bottom of the pic.
The right side of L'Olla, including the right-half...
The right side of L'Olla offers several classic moderates.
The right side of L'Olla offers several classic mo...
Topo with key routes marked.
Topo with key routes marked.

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