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 ADVANCED
Reflector Oven
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chasm Crack T 
Crackin, The T 
Don't Pro the Flake Bro T,S 
Loki T,S 
Parker Route, The T,S 
Report to Sickbay T 
Strawberry Fields T 
Sunday Crack Fix T 
Unknown T,S 
Vegetated Crack, The T 
When Natural Law Fails T 
Unsorted Routes:

Loki 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Michael Doyle
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: Martin Edwards on Oct 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Taylor leading Loki

Description 

Start up the slightly dirty ledge to the slab right of the Yellow Jacket/Mystery Move dihedral. Continuous slab moves with the occasional hold through some bolts to the bolted anchor.

Location 

Take the Bushwhack Trail to Reflector Oven. This is the large obvious slab as you walk up the hill towards Strawberry Fields (climber's right of SF).

Protection 

3 bolts, and some opportunities on the left side of the route for cams/stoppers. The 3rd bolt is over the right edge, and is the last bolt for "The B&H Route."


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By Larry S
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

A nice line. Has a mossy green smear above the first bolt and could be a little wet above the second, but you can step over that part. Up to the first bolt protects ok with a 2tcu sized piece, and the horizontal between 1st and second takes either a small cam (.3 Camalot) or a 2" piece. I had to do some gardening with a nut tool to clear some dirt from the cracks. Nothing else needed aside from some draws.

Has 3 bolts for an anchor at the top. One is new, the other two are old rusty cold shuts. The new bolt has some rust on it too.