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Loki 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: SA, Jean Francois Camson
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
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Description 

This devious climb starts just right of Asgard, ascending the next prominent right-leaning crack to its right. Begin on easy moves up a discontinuous crack which heads towards a seam in a left-facing corner bearing two bolts. Done as one pitch, this trickster is a fight to the finish. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 Climb up and past the two bolts (crux) to the gear-protected crack above. Continue up this crack to its intersection with Asgard. Whereas Asgard moves over right into the crack system which Tyr eventually joins, this route continues straight up into the strenuous right-facing corner above (5.10, bearing one pin) for a direct line to the belay ledge above. Step left to a bolted anchor. 5.11+, 2 bolts, pro to 3, 82 feet.

Pitch 2 Ascend the short section of crack just right of the belay that gains the ledge above. The gently overhanging weakness just right of the Asgard corner bears four bolts, and leads to the bolt (replaced pin) on the traverse right out of the Asgard dihedral. Move left and up past two last bolts to the anchors. 5.11, 7 bolts, 55 feet.

Variation 5.11 **. Start on Asgard, but after 60 feet, follow Loki from the piton all the way to the top anchors. Although this has been lead in one pitch, it can be broken into 2 pitches to alleviate rope-drag on the crux section.


Protection 

Bolts, pro to 3", anchors.



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By 1Eric Rhicard
May 12, 2009

Dogged the crux then climbed this to the first anchors on Asgard. Hard crux protected by bolts. Crux is hard but not as long as the crux on Tyr.

By Brent Silvester
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I somehow managed to on sight the crux part, but was just too tired to get into the squeeze chimny and fell. That's what you get when you don't have a topo, and you "think" it looks like a 10-. Oops.

Gear beata. Pretty much a good assortment of nuts and cams. Definitly two #1 camalots and absolutly a # 3. The 3 came in handy.

Good route, pretty varried.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 7, 2014

The first pitch has about 30 feet of cool climbing. The section where SA suggests moving left to a fixed pin is trivial and contrived and adds little to the experience. Looking forward to doing the second pitch.