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By Anders
From San Francisco
Aug 2, 2014
Hello Forum,

I'm planning to do some rope soloing at the Needles this September. Can anyone tell me if one can descend most things with one rope? I know that the Witch is no problem but I've never climbed the Sorcerer or the Warlock. I can really only carry one rope so I am hoping it doesn't limit me too much.

Thanks,
Anders

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By Peter Valchev
From Truckee, CA
Aug 4, 2014
You can descend the Sorcerer with one rope (from the top ledge, you do two raps, a 70m works better for the second rappel from the notch, gets you down to 3rd class/almost the ground). Not 100% sure on the Warlock, we used two ropes to do a 200ft rappel there when we did the Beckey route (SE face) a few years ago, but it's probably not the only option. The majority of climbers only bring a single rope and it is sufficient for most climbs, FWIW :) Have a great time!

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 5, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
I always have 2 ropes with me .... Doubles for the Needles, always.

the place is big

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By Chad F
From Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 5, 2014
photo
Rap the howling on the warlock with a single 70m

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 6, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
Chad F wrote:
Rap the howling on the warlock with a single 70m



You can get away with that, on that one.....

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By Grover
Aug 7, 2014
A 70m rope will do.. I've gotten off all formations with a 70 just fine.

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By Old Sag
Aug 7, 2014
Grover wrote:
A 70m rope will do.. I've gotten off all formations with a 70 just fine.


Are the raps set up for a 70m or did you leave slings and gear?

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By Grover
Aug 7, 2014
I didn't leave anything, its all bolted anchor raps. A 70 works for everything. You may not rap directly to another anchor, some times you have to walk down to another anchor - I wouldn't call it a down climb, at most its a scramble-walk, like on the Sorcerer - 2 raps - the last rap you have to down climb some 5.4 for 10 feet its very easy.

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By Old Sag
Aug 7, 2014
Grover wrote:
I didn't leave anything, its all bolted anchor raps. A 70 works for everything.


amazing. I was always told you need two ropes to get down. Are the rap bolts pretty new?

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By Grover
Aug 7, 2014
I don't know what to say other than I've gotten off all formations with a 70 people, and I mean every formation. I'm not making it up. If you are concerned bring two ropes.

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By Old Sag
Aug 7, 2014
Grover wrote:
I don't know what to say other than I've gotten off all formations with a 70 people, and I mean every formation. I'm not making it up. If you are concerned bring two ropes.



I'm not doubting you. I'm just really happy to hear about this because I don't want to carry two ropes either, so I wanted to find out more about the conditions of the anchors, etc.

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By Grover
Aug 7, 2014
O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote:
I'm not doubting you. I'm just really happy to hear about this because I don't want to carry two ropes either, so I wanted to find out more about the conditions of the anchors, etc.


I hear yah, Its hard to get the point across on MP some times, and even though I've gotten off all formations with a 70m rope there will still be some one to tell you bring 2 ropes. its your call

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 7, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
Grover .... I am that Guy.

Needles were developed using no style...

Everyone had 2ea 50 meter cords way back in the good old days.

When it was time to rap off, the cords were tied together and tossed...
if drilling for an anchor was needed, one slid down as close to the end of that cord as you could ... 50m. and drilled.

Now I am sure one could get around just fine with a 70m, doing raps of 35m (tie knots in the ends) but sooner or later you will come up short, and then you will need to figure out what to do.

I guess that is the essence of adventure and the Needles will dole that out all day long.

But I do know this... do not try to decend down the 4 huge airball raps leading to the base between the Warlock and the Witch.... or any of the climbs by "West Side Story" or "Liquid Sky"

Be-safe Anders, no one around mid week in september.

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By Grover
Aug 7, 2014
Hey Guy,
I got on Esto Power last week end, Just did the first pitch and its a nice one for sure. You should check out Welome to Wall-Mart in Sequoia if you like Esto its just as good, if not better.

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By Anders
From San Francisco
Aug 7, 2014
Thanks everyone for the replies. I've been to the Needles a few times now. Enough to know that one can find themselves in deep shit pretty damn quick. I'll bring a 70 and will probably stick to the better protected stuff. Cheers!

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By Anders
From San Francisco
Aug 7, 2014
Thanks everyone for the replies. I've been to the Needles a few times now. Enough to know that one can find themselves in deep shit pretty quick. I'll bring a 70 and will probably stick to the better protected stuff. Cheers!

FLAG
 
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 8, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
Grover... Esto Power is one of the best climbs at Courtwright, IMHO.

Have you done the Carson Kodas??? That is full measure face climbing for sure.

The new GB is packed full of all the new climbs done in the last 25 years.

I plan on going to Sequoia as soon as my leg will handle some hiking and climbing... my friend has been giving me the new climb info. The place looks fab.

but back to the topic....

Anders, sounds like a good plan to stick to known climbs. The new guide book is really nicely done, with a bunch of info about how to locate the climbs and how to get off of them. Kris has really done his homework, has climbed most of the routes at the Needles and he did a bunch of bolt replacement.

be safe all.

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By Old Sag
Aug 8, 2014
Guy Keesee wrote:
Grover... Esto Power is one of the best climbs at Courtwright, IMHO. Have you done the Carson Kodas??? That is full measure face climbing for sure. The new GB is packed full of all the new climbs done in the last 25 years. I plan on going to Sequoia as soon as my leg will handle some hiking and climbing... my friend has been giving me the new climb info. The place looks fab. but back to the topic.... Anders, sounds like a good plan to stick to known climbs. The new guide book is really nicely done, with a bunch of info about how to locate the climbs and how to get off of them. Kris has really done his homework, has climbed most of the routes at the Needles and he did a bunch of bolt replacement. be safe all.


Do you know if the book is available for purchase now?

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 8, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
O.L.D.S.A.G.

The Needles one is going to the printers... now I think.

Cortwright... I think is still in the works... Dwight is still getting info...

if you have any route info, he gave "last call" a few weeks back on the TACO.

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By Old Sag
Aug 8, 2014
Guy Keesee wrote:
O.L.D.S.A.G. The Needles one is going to the printers... now I think. Cortwright... I think is still in the works... Dwight is still getting info... if you have any route info, he gave "last call" a few weeks back on the TACO.


awesome. Thanks.

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By Grover
Aug 8, 2014
Guy Keesee wrote:
Grover... Esto Power is one of the best climbs at Courtwright, IMHO. Have you done the Carson Kodas???


I did get on Carson Kodas arÍte, Just a solo top rope - mini trax. That rock is awesome, some of the finest I've ever been on. I hope to lead it some day but I want to make sure I'm ready for it. Very Awesome route.

FLAG


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