Logic and Proportion
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The crux of the route may be the tricky, but bomber gear placements. There are many v-slots, pods, and the occasional sideways nut placement. Tread lightly and check holds before weighting them. If you get off route, holds may start to break. If a rap anchor gets added, this would merit a third star.
Start just left of Sam I Am, the big left facing corner at a featured face. Look for the right most feature before the wall goes blank. Start just left and trend up and right through some big moves on the steepest part of the face (crux) to the right most feature. Move up the features with big holds on a steep face (pumpy). Follow the same feature to the top and exit on the big horn jug. Be sure to load up on gear when it presents itself.
On the left side of the Dip Wall, just left of the obvious left facing corner in the center of the featured face. Follow the right side of the feature for most of the climb.
Single rack of cams, nuts, tri-cams(.25-3 recommended), several shoulder length slings, and a good knowledge of gear. Build a trad belay directly above the climb in good horizontals back a little ways on the ledge. Make a easy 5th class traverse to the anchor on Sam I Am. Have a 12' length of sling in case the Sam I Am anchor needs to be replaced.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Apr 28, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Climbed this route the other day. Spectacular mini-adventure route with fun climbing over not-so-optimal gear. This route would certainly see more traffic and clean up nicely with the addition of an anchor.