This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended.
Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.
Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.
Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.
This is one of the better ledges in the Valley. Hang out, eat lunch, and make two raps with one 70m rope: From the chains on the east edge of the ledge rap once to the top of Simian Sex, then make one more 35m rap. With one 70m rope, you will need to downclimb easy rock for about 5ft. to reach the ground.
This route is located about 1/3 of the way up from the toe of the buttress, and is identified by the groove that marks the first pitch.
Carry gear to 4.5 in. and include plenty of long runners.
BETA PHOTO: Nice view from loggerhead ledge
Feb 10, 2011
I think this climb will see a bit of a revival over the next decade. The ledge is really worth the climb, and good obscurities are becoming trendy again. The unattractive look of pitch one could turn some parties around, but this should be on everyone's to do list. Avoid the Manure Pile crowds and give this old moderate a try, you'll be glad you did.
|By vincent L.|
Nov 5, 2011
An old school feel with some awkward wide sections and chimneying . A beautiful ledge up higher with excellent views . Well worth doing , and not too hard .
|By Rob Dillon|
Dec 16, 2011
Nice in the warm season too.
|By Lana dude|
Jul 2, 2013
Nice ledges, location and solitude, but the climbing itself involves groveling up a dirt-filled gully. Pitch 2 ends with a steep chimney, awkward enough that I wouldn't suggest to brand new 5.7 leaders. A rope-eater if retreating from top of P2. Unless you love chimneys (or really hate crowds) do the classics first.