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Loggerhead Buttress
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Sorry Poopsie 
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Loggerhead Ledge Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 240', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 983
Submitted By: Osprey on Nov 27, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: A look up the loggerhead ledge route .
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Description 

This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended.

Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.

Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.

Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.

This is one of the better ledges in the Valley. Hang out, eat lunch, and make two raps with one 70m rope: From the chains on the east edge of the ledge rap once to the top of Simian Sex, then make one more 35m rap. With one 70m rope, you will need to downclimb easy rock for about 5ft. to reach the ground.


Location 

This route is located about 1/3 of the way up from the toe of the buttress, and is identified by the groove that marks the first pitch.


Protection 

Carry gear to 4.5 in. and include plenty of long runners.



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Nice view from loggerhead ledge
BETA PHOTO: Nice view from loggerhead ledge
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By Osprey
From: ...
Feb 10, 2011

I think this climb will see a bit of a revival over the next decade. The ledge is really worth the climb, and good obscurities are becoming trendy again. The unattractive look of pitch one could turn some parties around, but this should be on everyone's to do list. Avoid the Manure Pile crowds and give this old moderate a try, you'll be glad you did.

By vincent L.
Nov 5, 2011

An old school feel with some awkward wide sections and chimneying . A beautiful ledge up higher with excellent views . Well worth doing , and not too hard .

By Rob Dillon
Dec 16, 2011

Nice in the warm season too.

By Lana dude
Jul 2, 2013

Nice ledges, location and solitude, but the climbing itself involves groveling up a dirt-filled gully. Pitch 2 ends with a steep chimney, awkward enough that I wouldn't suggest to brand new 5.7 leaders. A rope-eater if retreating from top of P2. Unless you love chimneys (or really hate crowds) do the classics first.