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Logger Head Buttress is good year round. It receives winter sunshine in the morning and summer shade in the afternoon. It is a secluded area with little to no traffic. Expect little to no company while climbing here.
Park at the picnic area 1.6 miles west of Camp 4. (Same as Manure Pile) Hike west +/-75 yards until a small climbers trail is reached. Follow this broken trail uphill to the toe of the buttress. The offwidth of Orange Juice Avenue is the first climb at the bottom of the buttress. Trend uphill along the eastern side of the base for the other climbs.
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Loggerhead Ledge Route 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Loggerhead Buttress
This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended. Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.This is one of the better ledges in the ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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