Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Logan

Select Area...
5.8 Wall, The 
Beach Front Wall 
Betagraph, The 
Blacksmith Fork Canyon 
Cherry Creek Boulders 
Cherry Peak 
China Wall 
Cliffs of Insanity 
Crag in the Sky 
Date Wall 
First Practice Wall 
Fucoidal Quartzite 
Green Canyon 
High Creek Canyon 
Hobbit Caves 
Kentucky Fried Penguin 
Margaritaville 
Mile 385 Area 
Mini Pinacle 
Monkey Wrench Buttress 
Mullein Land 
New World 
Preston Valley Pinnacle 
Promised Land 
Quality Cave 
Right Hand Fork 
Rodent Ranch 
Second Practice Wall 
Shocking Awe 
Skunk Caves 
Smith Rock 
Smithfield Dry Canyon 
Solar Cave 
Superbowl 
Tidal Wave Cave 
Utopia 
Wall of Illness 
Wall of Jericho 

Logan  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.7435, -111.795 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 203,921
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on May 14, 2004
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [5 people like this page.]
Autumn in lower Logan Canyon. Photo was taken from...

Description 

Limestone and quartzite climbing. Predominately sport routes. The approaches can be as small or as large as you desire, and there are many avenues for exploration. Certain climbs (21) to date have been closed to protect an endangered species (Maguire Primrose). Logan is a cool canyon, therefore winter rock-climbing is all but impossible.

Getting There 

Take US 89 up the canyon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

294 Total Routes

['4 Stars',24],['3 Stars',139],['2 Stars',102],['1 Star',23],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',15],['5.8',18],['5.9',19],['5.10',57],['5.11',78],['5.12',58],['5.13',28],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Logan:
The Lost Bolt   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   First Practice Wall
Drilling In The Dark   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Kentucky Fried Chicken   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Kentucky Fried Penguin
The Yeti   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Hobbit Caves
Kentucky Fried Penguin   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Kentucky Fried Penguin
Community Effort   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Illusions   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Samsquanch   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Hobbit Caves
Terminalogical Inexactitude   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Babe-a-licious   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Betagraph
Begging For Bolts   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Northface Massacre    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Knightland : Hidden Wall
I'm blue, I'm a dog, I'm a dog.   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 45'   Mullein Land
Betagraphic   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   The Betagraph
Limestone Cowboy   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Fucoidal Quartzite
Minnowmaker   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   China Wall
Gray Matter   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 70'   Left Hand Fork : Hardware Wall
Grey Hound   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   Left Hand Fork : Hardware Wall
Clear For Take-Off   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   Left Hand Fork : Hardware Wall
Soul Crusher   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport   Left Hand Fork : Hardware Wall
Browse More Classics in Logan

Featured Route For Logan
Melissa working on the notorious "turn" crux move on Soul Crusher. This move is height dependent for sure, yet easy for no one.

Soul Crusher 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Hardware Wall
This starts on the face to the right of Patsy. Climb through a small roof and blocky holds to a good shake. Traverse slightly left to hard-to-hold pinches, bad feet and long moves (crux). Cruise an easier section to the first set of anchors (13a) or continue climbing the steep headwall. This is amazing climbing. Clipping the 2nd set of anchors comes in at 13b. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Logan Slideshow Add Photo
Looking across the Cache Valley to the Wellsvilles from near the mouth of Logan Canyon.
Looking across the Cache Valley to the Wellsvilles...
Second Practice Wall, near second dam. A Great place to take beginners
BETA PHOTO: Second Practice Wall, near second dam. A Great pla...
<a href='/v/china-wall/105739662'>China Wall</a>
BETA PHOTO: China Wall
fun trad climb, rigth of the huge overhang climbs. bring standard rack up to #3 cam. whatch out for the spidy webs.
fun trad climb, rigth of the huge overhang climbs....
Lost Bolt 5.7
BETA PHOTO: Lost Bolt 5.7
area 385 as seen from the road, Mile markers changed so it's now at 472. Crag in the sky is also pictured
BETA PHOTO: area 385 as seen from the road, Mile markers chang...
Preston Pinnacle
BETA PHOTO: Preston Pinnacle
The view from 5.8 wall looking out onto the valley
The view from 5.8 wall looking out onto the valley
fucoidal quartzite as seen from the road at mile marker 470.5
BETA PHOTO: fucoidal quartzite as seen from the road at mile m...
the approach to 5.8 wall. the picture taken from the Cache forest sign, near the mouth of Logan Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: the approach to 5.8 wall. the picture taken from t...
<a href='/v/rodent-ranch/106593859'>Rodent Ranch</a>,<a href='/v/wall-of-jericho/107194808'>Wall of Jericho</a>, Dodge city, <a href='/v/the-betagraph/106030487'>The Betagraph</a>, <a href='/v/cliffs-of-insanity/106455546'>Cliffs of Insanity</a> and <a href='/v/utopia/106835318'>Utopia</a>
BETA PHOTO: Rodent Ranch,Wall of Jericho, Dodge city, [[1060304...
at Mile Marker 463.1 there's First Practice Wall, Monkey Wrench Buttress and up a steep hike are the solar caves
BETA PHOTO: at Mile Marker 463.1 there's First Practice Wall, ...
<a href='/v/mullein-land/107159348'>Mullein Land</a> as seen from the road, right before <a href='/v/kentucky-fried-penguin/105739440'>Kentucky Fried Penguin</a> around mile marker 468.7.
BETA PHOTO: Mullein Land as seen from the road, right before ...
upper and lower solar caves.  Park at First practice wall, hike up to monkey wrench buttress and keep heading up canyon and up  the talus slope.
BETA PHOTO: upper and lower solar caves. Park at First practi...
awesome
awesome

Comments on Logan Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 4, 2005
This is the old guide. The new guide has around 600 climbs (twice as much) and is avilble at nuclimbing.com
By James Garrett
Jun 26, 2008
Logan Canyon is awesome and so many good routes and potential for so many new ones. I just visited the Muelline Wall Area for the first time, and as I hadn't even known about it before the current new guide, was wondering if this is in fact a "new area". One concern, though, to those doing the developing.
1. What is with the swingset gauge chain for the anchors?
2. How many inches of bolt are actually in the rock after being threaded through the piles of chain and washers?
3. My partner and I felt many anchors looked unsafe and the chain is just too thin on almost all of the routes up there and elsewhere? We didn't lower either, just rapped.
But certainly, all in all,.........great climbing you people up in Logan have...and keep up the good work scoping out such spectacular lines....more multi-pitch!!!! I love climbing to the tops of those beautiful limestone aretes and buttresses up in Logan!
By Matt Brodhead
From: Logan, UT
Apr 24, 2011
safeclimbing.org/education/bom...

Evaluate bolts in Logan Canyon with caution. There are a few routes that should be avoided until bolts are replaced.