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Camp Rock
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Log Jam 

Log Jam 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,113
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Jul 20, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: The South face of Camp Rock showing the first 60 f...

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Description 

Log Jam is located at the lowest point on Camp Rock. It is easy to find because it's a very clean, compelling, wide crack that becomes a chimney near the top. The hardest moves seem to be the first ones. There is a small roof that has to be cranked through before reaching the crack proper. Once in the crack, start stemming up to a nice ledge. There are good hand, finger, and fist jams in this section. From here, the pitch turns into a pleasant chimney for a few feet, before absolutely bomber moves allow a roof to be cranked through at the top. Scramble to the summit and then head down the back side angling to the left. A nice trail closely follows the base of the rock. Enjoy.


Protection 

Take standard rack and some larger gear on this one. You won't regret bringing a #4 Camalot.



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By Lance Bischoff
Oct 17, 2003

The route description above sounds to me like "Cave Crack" (D'Antonio guide book Classic Rock Climbs 03), a 5.6 route that becomes chimney work in at least two areas. I think it feels 5.6, adjacent route options (crack and face climbing) can be 5.7 or up.I'm confused...which is which?

By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 31, 2003

Hey Lance. I don't know. You might be right. D'Antonio describes Cave Crack as "an obvious wide crack on the left side of the rock. Log Jam goes up the wide crack just right of Cave Crack." What do you think?

By Margaret T
From: Denver, CO
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Climbed this route late in the evening (7 pm start), so decided to run up the back and set a TR. Very good TR anchor possibilities and could have climbed other places on this face if it hadn't gotten dark! Don't belay in flip flops, because there are lots of prickly raspberry bushes at base! Top 30 feet are more of a 5.2 scramble, but there are some good 5.7 layback and chimney moves lover down. 60m rope sets a TR with about 3m to spare on either end.