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Lofoten

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Lofoten  


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Location: 68.1838, 14.274 View Map  Incorrect?
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Submitted By: TM Miller on Aug 5, 2010
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Arriving by ferry to the Lofoten Islands, approach...

Description 

The Lofoten Islands are a rugged chain of mountainous islands off the west coast of northern Norway, rising abruptly from the sparkling blue waters of the Norwegian Sea. It really is one of the more unique and beautiful climbing areas you will ever visit.

Located north of the Arctic Circle, during the height of the summer climbing season you can climb all day without a headlamp, sometimes in the direct rays of the midnight sun. The islands do catch a lot of storms from different directions and some rain should be expected on any extended visit. That said, the weather can also be sunny and warm for extended periods of time, and most of the rock dries very quickly after rain. Still air seems to be rare - there is almost always anything ranging from a slight breeze to fairly solid wind - this also helps to dry the rock after rain.

The rock is granite, but don't expect the sort of granite that you might find in Yosemite. If I had to pick a place in the U.S., I'd say the rock reminded me most of the more solid rock in Rocky Mountain National Park (which I know, is not granite). It is generally very solid, but even though it is at sea level, it is an alpine environment and you will encounter some occasional looseness. However, most of the popular routes are very clean. There are also pretty big alpine climbs which will offer a completely different experience. The climbing in Lofoten ranges from single pitch routes, to short multi pitch climbs (2-4 short pitches - a lot of the climbs fall into this category), long free routes like those on Presten, to moderate alpine ridges, to serious alpine walls.

For such a remote location, the routes can get crowded. Expect lines on popular classics like "Vestpillaren" and "Bare Blabaer". The guidebook uses a quality rating system from no stars to 3 stars, and also uses a "Top 50" category for 50 routes routes that the authors consider the classics. If you get away from the Top 50 routes, it is very easy to avoid queuing up for routes.

The guidebook, "Lofoten Rock" by Chris Craggs and Thorbjorn Enevold, is published by Rockfax (UK) and is very well organized and written entirely in English. It is hard to come by in the U.S. and expensive. It can be purchased in Lofoten from the shop in Henningsvaer.

Getting There 

Lofoten is a long way from most places, which is part of its charm. In some locations on the islands, you really get the feeling that you're at the end of the Earth.

The truth is, although it takes time and can be expensive, it really isn't that hard to get to Lofoten. The islands are accessible by road, ferry, or plane. The hardest part may be choosing a travel option that suits your budget and plan. The main town that you are trying to reach is Svolvaer. Although not completely necessary, having a car is very helpful in Lofoten. A lot of the climbing is a short walk from the main camping area near Hennigsvaer. But if you want to explore the rest of the islands, get groceries, or climb in some of the areas outside of Henningsvaer, you will want a car.

Everything in Norway is expensive. Fortunately in Lofoten, the camping is the one part of your trip that will not put a strain on your wallet - its free. Most climbers camp in the area off of the road beneath the Gandalf Wall near Henningsvaer. Clean drinking water is available at the site, however toilets and trash cans are not. The camping is beautiful though - roadside camping right along the water, a stones throw from the crags.

Groceries are available in Henningsvaer (which although it appears close, is still about a 40 minute walk from the camping area). The best bet for groceries is to drive into Svolvaer where there are bigger stores. Beer can be purchased in grocery stores during limited hours. Anything else (wine, etc.) needs to be purchased from the state run store in Svolvaer. For camping stoves, you will not find white gas or the little green Coleman propane canisters. Bring a stove that uses butane/propane canisters.

Climbing Season



Weather station 20.1 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lofoten :
Bare Blabaer   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 550'   Djupfjord
Forsida   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   Svolvaergeita
Vestpillaren   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300'   Presten
Browse More Classics in Lofoten

Featured Route For Lofoten
Looking at Store Festvag from the main trail (while descending from Presten).  The route Lundeklubben starts from the top of the blocky tower at the base of the cliff, then heads straight up the long corner system to the top.  The steep reddish wall on the right is where Skiloperen is found.

Lundeklubben 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  Europe : Norway : ... : Store Festvag
This route follows a nice series of cracks up through the obvious right facing dihedral with the small roof in it in the center of the crag.P1: (5.10b, 35m) Start up the thin crack to the left of the mossy gully. Fun climbing up the featured crack in the beginning leads to a delicate step over to the right into the main corner. Continue up the main corner to the base of the main crack, then climb it up to a nice belay ledge. Build a belay.P2: (5.10b, 35m) Climb up the widish crack, mostly u...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Lofoten Slideshow Add Photo
Viking museum not far from Lofoten, definitely worth visiting on a rest day.
Viking museum not far from Lofoten, definitely wor...
viking ships at the museum
viking ships at the museum

Comments on Lofoten Add Comment
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By Carol Kotchek
From: Louisville, Colorado
Aug 28, 2010
There is also free camping near Kalle, a small village located between Svolvaer and Henninsgvaer. The camping here seemed much more sheltered then the camping near Hennigsvaer. There is a toilet at this camping area but I have heard it is overused. A car is a must if you camp here.

Free camping at Kalle with Storpillaren and Alkoholveggen in the background
Free camping at Kalle with Storpillaren and Alkoholveggen in the background
By Carol Kotchek
From: Louisville, Colorado
Aug 28, 2010
We stayed in a small cabin at the campground Orsvagvaer. About $80 per night split between 2 of us. The cabin had 4 bunks, a small table and chairs, fridge, hot plate, and heater. There was a larger communal kitchen to use if we wanted more elaborate meals. Showers at the main building were included along with Wi Fi and a communal computer. To learn more go to www.orsvag.no
Small cozy cabin at Orsvagaer
Small cozy cabin at Orsvagaer


Typical scene, checking the weather report on the i phone
Typical scene, checking the weather report on the i phone