Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Motherlode Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belleville TR 
Black Bart S 
Blasting Cap S 
Cap Gun T 
Dust in the Wind T 
Fire in the Hole S 
Fools Gold T 
Golden Gloves S 
Golden Nugget S 
Lodestone S 
Motherlode S 
Out of Our Mines S 
Psychedelic Sluice T 
Shantytown Swing S 
Wildrose S 

Lodestone 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Miller, May 2000
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Lodestone (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Description 

This popular link-up combines the lower portion of Black Bart with the upper portion of Motherlode and avoids the hard sections of both those routes.

Climb up and left along tricky thin edges past three bolts to a ledge, clip a bolt on the left wall of a shallow dihedral and then stem your way up the short corner to a low-angled arete passing two more bolts to anchors.

Location 

Combines the lower portion of Black Bart with the upper portion of Motherlode.

Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors


Comments on Lodestone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Clif Clap
Jul 30, 2013

I went up initially going for Black Bart but after getting thoroughly confused by the slab finished left and bagged a red point. Climbing to the ledge is really fun but the arete is sort of dull and puts you in a bit of no man's land at the top. I clipped on Golden Nugget's anchors - rapping off to clean the route was a little tricky but worked fine enough.