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 ADVANCED
The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
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Bete Noir 
Black Toe Arete 
Borg, The 
Burnt Toast, The 
Capital Outlay 
Chuana Chavaria 
Cold Feet 
Datura 
Delilah 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk 
Don't Make Me Shave You 
It's All Gone 
Laugh the Past Away 
Locutus 
Magus, The 
Pincher 
Resistance is Futile 
Skank to Crank 
Three Doubles 
Torch & Twang 
Tout Tout de Suite 
Tower of Power 
Triage 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 

Locutus 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Darryl Roth
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009
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The Borg Boulder.

"Locutus" follows the left-most...

Description 

At the far right end of the Great Black North lies a spectacular, leaning mass of impeccable red & white-speckled limestone known as The Borg Boulder. The awesome northeast face of this block overhangs roughly 15 degrees & currently features three diminutive bolted sport routes and a bouldering traverse.

Locutus bolts directly up the left half of the face. The climbing is extremely powerful, demanding full-length cranks between deep, incut two finger pockets. The sequential line requires flawless routefinding, but fortunately the entire line can be easily scoped from the ground. Although short, Locutus is ultra-sustained, with no easy moves and only one 'rest'-- a strenuous shake at the fourth bolt. There is an optional mono (left hand) on this route, near the first bolt. If this route were three times as long, it would rank among the most sought after test-pieces in Colorado. As it is, it's an unforgettable, must-do route.


Location 

Left-most bolted route on the Borg Boulder, which is located on the far right (west) end of the cliff.


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Stick Clip highly recommended! All of the clips are desparate, so whip out your stick clip skills & pre-hang as many draws as you can!



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