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Locomotion Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Grain Dance TR 
Gunks West T 
Hhecht T 
Jump Back Loretta T 
Jumping Jehosephat T 
Leaping Leaner T 
Lumping Fat Jennie T 
Slip and Slide TR 
Snnfchtt T 

Locomotion Rock  


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Location: 34.01343, -116.16796 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,770
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2002
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Description 

Locomotion rock is at the far southeast end of the Real Hidden Valley, a few hundred yards south of the Hidden Tower. The crag is visible from almost anywhere from the north or west once you are on the main Real Hidden Valley loop trail.

The often-climbed routes face primarily west/southwest on the large slab-like face. Most of the routes start from the ground in a slot between a second small cliff and are thus shaded from behind by the other rock. The ground belay remains primarily shady and cool. The climbs here are a mix of Easy trad leads (5.6-5.8) and harder topropes (5.10b-5.11c) with nothing inbetween to speak of. The rock is solid and trustworthy for protection.

The popular lines are Leaping Leaner (5.6) and Jumping Jehosephat (5.7). Either of these would be a fun moderate, but may be difficult for someone who does not jam well.

Rap anchors on the top of each end of the rock will return you to the base.

Getting There 

Enter the Real Hidden Valley from the standard entrance an immediately head to the right (East) on the loop trail. Skirt this until an obvious low-angle "hogback" like rock appears to your south, then scramble over on a trail to the West side of this crag.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.4 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Locomotion Rock:
Leaping Leaner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Locomotion Rock

Featured Route For Locomotion Rock
Daniel Schuerch not quite gaining the crack.

Gunks West 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Locomotion Rock
Clip the bolt from the boulder and make a strenuous move to gain the crack. Follow the crack up and up. I thought it was sandbagged for a 5.10b....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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Locomotion Rock
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By Jason Block
Mar 24, 2003
Wanted to let anyone who was thinking of getting on Jumping Jehosephat that it was a great route that starts easiy and gets harder, eventually the hand jams run out and you need to trust your feet for the last few moves, also to everyone. the rap bolts that are supposidly at the top are no longer, but escaping off is not too bad with a little scrambling, saw some old webbing strung around a rock also. For all the new trad leaders out there that need that info. Later
By Shano
Feb 17, 2004
FYI - you can downclimb into the hole behind J.J. then move up the ramp and up to the top of Leaping Leana to find a nice fat set of rap rings to guide you to the bottom. Much easier than scrambling (in the dark as I once made the mistake of doing.)
By Bo Johnston
Mar 13, 2005
There are great anchors now on the top of Leaping Leana.
By Blitzo
Sep 22, 2006
A fun route! Feels more like 5.6.
By Gary Schenk
Jan 31, 2007
As of 1/30/07 there is only one bolt remaining at the Leaping Leana anchors.
By Tom Myers
Mar 24, 2008
There were no bolts to be found on top of J.J. as of this posting. A sling rap anchor is about 8 feet left, I suggest renewing at least one of the slings. Pro of about 4" is needed to set up a top rop anchor. Excellent short crack for learning to climb a left leaning hand crack, slightly flaring at the top.