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Gatekeeper Wall
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Gatekeeper Crack T 
Locksmith Dihedral T 

Locksmith Dihedral 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 750', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Owens - April 2005. FFA Mike Anderson in 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring & Fall
Page Views: 1,601
Submitted By: bsmoot on Feb 24, 2008

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Looking down from the belay atop the crux.

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Description 

The Locksmith Dihedral follows the steep, tasty-looking corner up the middle of the buttress.

The first pitch begins in a short chimney filled with a block. An off-size hand crack leads up to a V slot and to the start of the main corner.

The 2nd pitch was one of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Continue up the dihedral to the top of a prominent tower, which was just 25' from the rim. Lots of loose rock was trundled from this top section as we rappelled off. If you want to go to the top of the formation, climb a 5.6 R pitch. The first 4 pitches offer the best quality, but going to the top is still well worth it.

There are no summit anchors so it might be best to rap down the Gatekeeper Crack.

Location 

See photo

Protection 

  • One #0 TCU
  • Three #1 TCU
  • Four #2 TCU
  • Three #3 TCU
  • Two #.75 Camalot
  • Three #1 Camalot
  • Three #2 Camalot
  • Three #3 Camalot
  • Two #4 Camalot
  • One #4.5 Camalot
  • One #5 Camalot
  • Nuts
  • 60m ropes


Photos of Locksmith Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Locksmith Dihedral follows the left line
BETA PHOTO: Locksmith Dihedral follows the left line
Topo
Topo
The stellar 2nd pitch dihedral.
The stellar 2nd pitch dihedral.
Looking down at the P1 crux, which is pulling a small roof on fingerlocks.
Looking down at the P1 crux, which is pulling a sm...

Comments on Locksmith Dihedral Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Feb 1, 2009

I give this 4 stars for the first four pitches. This makes a great half-day outing of consistent 5.11 climbing with a short 12- crux.
By eric whewell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 11, 2014

Great climbing on the first 4 pitches. The crux section involves pulling through a wide roof, its physical but short. A #6 camalot was great to have. Rack beta on here was pretty good. Could likely do it with 1 less 3 and 4 camalot. The rap anchors don't have chains so consider bringing some extra cord or webbing to back up or remove the old stuff.

We approached via the Watchman Trail and then bushwacked and side-hilled over to the Gatekeeper Wall. We descended the wash directly below. In the future I would approach via our descent route, up the wash straight to the base of the wall.