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|Type: ||Trad, 8 pitches, 750', Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Owens - April 2005. FFA Mike Anderson in 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring & Fall|
|Submitted By: ||bsmoot on Feb 24, 2008|
BETA PHOTO: Locksmith Dihedral follows the left line
The Locksmith Dihedral follows the steep, tasty-looking corner up the middle of the buttress.
The first pitch begins in a short chimney filled with a block. An off-size hand crack leads up to a V slot and to the start of the main corner.
The 2nd pitch was one of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Continue up the dihedral to the top of a prominent tower, which was just 25' from the rim. Lots of loose rock was trundled from this top section as we rappelled off. If you want to go to the top of the formation, climb a 5.6 R pitch. The first 4 pitches offer the best quality, but going to the top is still well worth it.
There are no summit anchors so it might be best to rap down the Gatekeeper Crack.
|Comments on Locksmith Dihedral
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Feb 1, 2009
I give this 4 stars for the first four pitches. This makes a great half-day outing of consistent 5.11 climbing with a short 12- crux.