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Locks of Dread
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.6 from 29
votes
Routes in 3. The Right Wall
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A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cookin’ with Gas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dark Sky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Death Spiral T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Donald Duckin It T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dr. Octagon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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East Coast Fist Bump T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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East Coast Fist Bump OG Variation T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Flavor of the Day T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Harder they Come, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kindness T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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No Utopia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Over the Moon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Proud Bootlegger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Resurrection T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Special Child T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Tainted Love T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three Sheets to the Wind T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Darren Singer, Daniel Miller- Early 90’s |
| Page Views: | 2,773 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Likely the first redpointed 5.12 at the Waterfall when Darren Singer onsighed the first ascent! This classy, all natural gear line starts in a thin hands crack through steep blocky alligator skin rock. A section of vertical fingers follows until the crack tightens down at a very important rest stance.
From the rest stance you will be able to leisurely try and find some very small wires and RP’s. More mystery gear has been talked about in the comments below. The bouldery, cryptic, and powerful crux on side pulls and gas pockets will test you mentally and physically. A pumpy finish adds flavor and seals the deal.
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