Mountain Project Logo

Lockers on draws for anchors

Original Post
Cliff · · Salem, OR · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 5

Quick question, for those of you that do use lockers on your draws when building anchors, do you put the lockers on the chain side or the rope side?

Thanks

Mike Smyth · · Spartanburg, SC · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 70

Both

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I actually have two draws with small lockers on both ends that I use to make an anchor/top rope.

Doesn't hurt to be safe and you can buy smaller low cost sizes.

The I have a double length runner that I use as a "cordelette" with 3 lockers. That I use more for multipitch, but I can use it either way.

Tristan Burnham · · La Crescenta, CA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 2,176

I just use 1 draw with a locker on each side and then 1 normal draw.

mitchy B · · nunya gotdamn business. · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

i use lockers for everything now. I don't even think i own non-lockers anymore. Sure they weigh a little more but who cares, gotta be careful.

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

it's got to be hard to clip lockers when pumped and griped though. Sometimes I feel like people try to make things too safe. One draw with a locker on the rope side should be more than adequate.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
TheChen wrote:Quick question, for those of you that do use lockers on your draws when building anchors, do you put the lockers on the chain side or the rope side? Thanks
The chances of you unclipping two opposed draws is ultra-small, so I would say you dont need lockers period. But that said, if you were short on lockers and wanted to use them on the anchor, the rope side should get them first.
Eric G. · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 70

No lockers necessary unless you determine it's a funky setup with the possibility of something interfering with the gate.

Simply oppose two draws.

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090
Tristan B wrote:I just use 1 draw with a locker on each side and then 1 normal draw.
I don't use lockers on any anchor draws but his seems like a good solution if you want a locker and have people running lead laps and TRing.
ChristopherAust · · Ohio · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25
martinharris wrote:it's got to be hard to clip lockers when pumped and griped though.
Rock Exotica makes an "ORCA" locker. Stands for Open Regular Close Auto, where you can leave it open until you open it all the way, then it locks on closing. Especially handy, but take a bit getting used to because they open by pulling up on the sleeve instead of down.
Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
mitchy wrote:i use lockers for everything now. I don't even think i own non-lockers anymore. Sure they weigh a LOT when you add them up more but who cares, gotta be careful.
FYP
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
Post a Reply to "Lockers on draws for anchors"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.