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Lockers on draws for anchors
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May 17, 2012
Quick question, for those of you that do use lockers on your draws when building anchors, do you put the lockers on the chain side or the rope side?


Thanks
TheChen
From Salem, OR
Joined Apr 19, 2012
2 points
May 17, 2012
Stick clips can be very handy in this area to keep...
Both Mike Smyth
From Spartanburg, SC
Joined Jun 30, 2011
81 points
May 17, 2012
Bocan
I actually have two draws with small lockers on both ends that I use to make an anchor/top rope.

Doesn't hurt to be safe and you can buy smaller low cost sizes.

The I have a double length runner that I use as a "cordelette" with 3 lockers. That I use more for multipitch, but I can use it either way.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
May 17, 2012
Hanging out on Royal Arches
I just use 1 draw with a locker on each side and then 1 normal draw. Tristan B
From La Crescenta, CA
Joined Oct 1, 2009
1,501 points
May 20, 2012
i use lockers for everything now. I don't even think i own non-lockers anymore. Sure they weigh a little more but who cares, gotta be careful. mitchy
From nunya gotdamn business.
Joined Aug 29, 2009
16 points
May 20, 2012
it's got to be hard to clip lockers when pumped and griped though. Sometimes I feel like people try to make things too safe. One draw with a locker on the rope side should be more than adequate. martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Joined Jul 20, 2010
228 points
Administrator
May 21, 2012
TheChen wrote:
Quick question, for those of you that do use lockers on your draws when building anchors, do you put the lockers on the chain side or the rope side? Thanks

The chances of you unclipping two opposed draws is ultra-small, so I would say you dont need lockers period. But that said, if you were short on lockers and wanted to use them on the anchor, the rope side should get them first.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
May 21, 2012
No lockers necessary unless you determine it's a funky setup with the possibility of something interfering with the gate.

Simply oppose two draws.
Eric G.
From Saratoga Springs, NY
Joined Apr 18, 2012
53 points
May 21, 2012
Top half of Melifluous
Tristan B wrote:
I just use 1 draw with a locker on each side and then 1 normal draw.


I don't use lockers on any anchor draws but his seems like a good solution if you want a locker and have people running lead laps and TRing.
Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
768 points
Jul 28, 2012
omg
martinharris wrote:
it's got to be hard to clip lockers when pumped and griped though.

Rock Exotica makes an "ORCA" locker. Stands for Open Regular Close Auto, where you can leave it open until you open it all the way, then it locks on closing. Especially handy, but take a bit getting used to because they open by pulling up on the sleeve instead of down.
ChristopherAust
From Ohio
Joined Jul 28, 2012
68 points
Jul 29, 2012
mitchy wrote:
i use lockers for everything now. I don't even think i own non-lockers anymore. Sure they weigh a LOT when you add them up more but who cares, gotta be careful.


FYP
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points


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