Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Black Magic
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Magic S 
Chalk On The Trigger S 
Climb Interrupted  S 
Distraction S 
Helix S 
Kronk S 
Lock and Load S 
Needles and Pins S 
Orogeny S 
Price Is Right, The S 
Problem Child S 
Simian S 
Stay on the Porch S 
True Lies S 
Tulsa S 

Lock and Load 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tim Roberts
Page Views: 327
Submitted By: Jeff Larson on Sep 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Pumpy pulls through the roof lead to continual nontrivial travel above the lip of the cave. Purposely primal pulls lead to at a mid-crux and do not count the chicken until it is hatched. A final redpoint move may be in order. If this is 12c then it is SOLID for the grade. Feel free to uprate.

all info pulled from here:


There are now a total of 4 routes that begin on Orogeny. This is outside the cave on the right side. Not sure about other 2 but this takes the leftmost new bolt line through the steepest part of the roof after the shared start for 3 or 4 bolts.


14 bolts

Descent: 3 bolt chain anchor. This is the highest anchor that can be seen about 12' left and 15' above the Orogony anchor. Looks like the other 2 linkups end here. 60m rope!

Comments on Lock and Load Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!