All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Black Magic

Lock and Load

Name: Lock and Load
Rating: 2.9

5.12c/d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in Black Magic

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Designer Babies S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fatal Discharge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Hexed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lock and Load S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Ouija S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Stay on the Porch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	True Lies S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Voodoo S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA:	Tim Roberts
Page Views:	1,321 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Jeff Larson on Sep 29, 2011
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

7 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.

Description

Pumpy pulls through the roof lead to continual nontrivial travel above the lip of the cave. Purposely primal pulls lead to at a mid-crux and do not count the chicken until it is hatched. A final redpoint move may be in order. If this is 12c then it is SOLID for the grade. Feel free to uprate.

all info pulled from here: rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor…

Location

There are now a total of 4 routes that begin on Orogeny. This is outside the cave on the right side. Not sure about other 2 but this takes the leftmost new bolt line through the steepest part of the roof after the shared start for 3 or 4 bolts.

Protection

14 bolts

Descent: 3 bolt chain anchor. This is the highest anchor that can be seen about 12' left and 15' above the Orogony anchor. Looks like the other 2 linkups end here. 60m rope!