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 ADVANCED
Black Magic
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Magic S 
Chalk on the trigger S 
Climb Interrupted  S 
Helix S 
Kronk S 
Lock and Load S 
Needles and Pins S 
Orogeny S 
Problem Child S 
Simian S 
Stay on the Porch S 

Lock and Load 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tim Roberts
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Jeff Larson on Sep 30, 2011

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pumpy pulls through the roof lead to continual nontrivial travel above the lip of the cave. Purposely primal pulls lead to at a mid-crux and do not count the chicken until it is hatched. A final redpoint move may be in order. If this is 12c then it is SOLID for the grade. Feel free to uprate.

all info pulled from here: www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Utah>>>


Location 

There are now a total of 4 routes that begin on Orogeny. This is outside the cave on the right side. Not sure about other 2 but this takes the leftmost new bolt line through the steepest part of the roof after the shared start for 3 or 4 bolts.


Protection 

14 bolts

Descent: 3 bolt chain anchor. This is the highest anchor that can be seen about 12' left and 15' above the Orogony anchor. Looks like the other 2 linkups end here. 60m rope!



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