Just like areas further up on the Furka pass, the climbing venues near the Albert-Heim hut are some of the best that Switzerland has to offer, offering an abundance of raw, steep alpine granite of impeccable quality in a breathtaking setting.
The Lochberg is but one of several choice targets in this area. Its relatively lengthy approach all but assures a secluded climbing experience.
The approach begins from Tiefenbach, on the east side of the the Furka pass. Park there or pay a nominal fee for use of a former military road that will gain you some elevation and cut your approach time by 15-20 minutes. There is a clear trailhead for the approach to the hut.
To reach the Lochberg, one can take the approach to the hut and then proceed on a trail behind the hut to the east, but it is quicker to head east at the parking place on the old military road and then proceed north in a straight shot towards the Lochberg (red/white trail).
Whether approaching on the trail from the west, behind the hut, or the trail from the south, at the point that the two connect there is a trail for the "Lochbergluecke" marked with blue/white stripes, which heads north through a boulder field. After a short elevation gain (extensive trail markings), a plateau with fantastic ponds and streams presents itself. The blue/white trail continues to the east/northeast. Follow the trail, and after gaining a fair bit of elevation, but still before the actual pass, traverse left along along the base of the rock to access the climbing.
The climbing is varied, on absolutely impeccable rock from start to finish. It is an absolute gem of a route, with a very consistent, moderate level of difficulty.The route has 7 pitches, primarily in the 5b range, with two short sections of 5c/6a climbing. A good topo for the route can be found in the plaisir-ost guidebook....[more]Browse More Classics in International