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Loch Vale Gorge

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Smear? T 
Crystal Meth T 
Free Strike Zone T 
Hydrogen Bondage 
Icy Chim T 
L of Lochluster T 
Lochluster T 
M5? hand crack T 
Mixed Feelings T 
Mo' Flo' Than Go T 
R of Lochluster TR 
Replicant (unnamed) TR 
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T 
Rock, Wood, Ice T 

Loch Vale Gorge 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,120'
Location: 40.29421, -105.65195 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 57,509
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Nov 30, 1999
Forecast:
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Description 

The cliffs bordering the east and north sides of Thatchtop offer the most consistent, accessible and greatest variety of ice climbs in the park. Low angle slabs, thin mixed climbs, free-hanging pinnacles, top roping and pure ice falls abound here. This is also the most crowded area in the park, and it is not uncommon to see 15-25 parties in the area when the ice is "in". Classic routes are everywhere: Mixed Feelings gives you the chance to try dry-tooling to a free hanging pillar is a fairly safe environment; the Curtains are a perfect top-rope area.


Getting There 

From Estes Park, follow the signs to RMNP. After the entrance station (~10 if your blew the alpine start), turn left and head towards Bear Lake. Park in the Glacier Gorge parking lot (now 0.3 miles from the old parking lot at the hairpin turn), about a mile before you reach Bear Lake. Follow the trail to Glacier Gorge. After a couple of miles you'll have to make a decision: left takes you into Glacier Gorge and All Mixed Up and the climbs at Black Lake; right takes you to the Loch. (Here's a great shortcut that will save you 30 minutes: Head right immediately after you cross the second overbuilt bridge-the ones with the handrails. Follow the drainage up until you intersect the GG trail about 100 yards from the GG/Loch junction. Summer climber's note: This is not the summer shortcut which parallels the drainage on the left. The winter route follows the creek bed and is quite skiiable.) For rad skiing when the conditions are good, don't take the trail down from the Loch, follow the drainage. Pick up the trail near the junction with the Glacier Gorge trail.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loch Vale Gorge:
R of Lochluster   WI4-     TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 75'   
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack)   WI5+ M6+ R     Trad, Mixed, Ice   
Rock, Wood, Ice   WI5- R     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   
Mixed Feelings   WI4 M4     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   
L of Lochluster   WI4 M4     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 110'   
Free Strike Zone   WI5 M7+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 110'   
Lochluster   WI3     Trad, Ice   
Crystal Meth   WI4-5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   
M5? hand crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in Loch Vale Gorge

Featured Route For Loch Vale Gorge
Mixed Emotions.

Mixed Feelings WI4 M4  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Loch Vale Gorge
This is an excellent route when it is in condition. Approach as for Loch Vale ice climbs and continue around to the east face of the Loch Vale ice climbing area. Hike up the snow to a point where the traverse crack is obvious. The route traverses out this crack to the right and then climbs up to the ice curtain on its left. You then move right, onto the ice, and go for the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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Photos of Loch Vale Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
The Gash <br />from Brain Freeze. <br />5 May 11.
The Gash
from Brain Freeze.
5 May 11.
The gorge just below the Loch.
The gorge just below the Loch.
Thin and cry at Lock Vale.
BETA PHOTO: Thin and cry at Lock Vale.
Don't know the name of this one but it is just to the right of Rock, Wood, Ice.  It's a really easy WI2, tucked in an obvious chimney.  Good as a warm up climb.  Can also do some mixed climbing as well.
BETA PHOTO: Don't know the name of this one but it is just to ...
L of Lockluster. <br />Conditions as of Nov. 29, 2007. <br /> <br /> <br />Photo by Christopher Perkins
BETA PHOTO: L of Lockluster.
Conditions as of Nov. 29, 2007.

...
22-October-2006  Mixed Emotion and Mo Flo than Go.
BETA PHOTO: 22-October-2006 Mixed Emotion and Mo Flo than Go.
Mixed Feelings is the icicle sticking down on the left, Mo' Flo' Than Go is in the center.  November 29, 2007. <br />Picture by Christopher Perkins.
BETA PHOTO: Mixed Feelings is the icicle sticking down on the ...
Right side of Loch Vale Gorge: 28 Jan. '07.
BETA PHOTO: Right side of Loch Vale Gorge: 28 Jan. '07.
Taken Nov. 26, 2007 - Mo Flo' than Go.
BETA PHOTO: Taken Nov. 26, 2007 - Mo Flo' than Go.
Taken Nov. 26, 2007 - Crystal Meth.
BETA PHOTO: Taken Nov. 26, 2007 - Crystal Meth.
Not sure of the name of this one, but it's at the end of the climbing area, maybe 100 feet past Lochluster and Rock, Wood, Ice.  A good, solid WI4 and a really fun, must do climb!
BETA PHOTO: Not sure of the name of this one, but it's at the ...
Comments on Loch Vale Gorge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 2, 2011
By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2001

This just in from Leo Paik: 11/29/01 Loch Vale Gorge report.

There is a bit of newish snow. Trail is well packed. Blustery above today. Not exactly a ton of ice.

Gorge Yourself WI3 (right of Blade Runner) is the only thing that you could call fat. Loch Ness Monster WI4+ is in but lean. L of Loch Luster M4 (where the trail come in) is quite lean. The 2 to the right are meager. Mixed Emotions is decent. Not as fat as the [Gillett] guide photo, but you can swing your tools at it perhaps 6 feet above the sling.

The word on Jaws from another climber is that it is dry!

Leo

By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 9, 2001

The Crypt is in nice and fat with lots of new ice on the bottom column. Quite the hump. If you are so inclined, you may want snowshoes for going up the hillside.

By Ben Hoyt
Oct 22, 2002

On Friday 10/18 Necrophilia was not in, as an ice climb. Only about 1 cubic foot of ice on the steep parts (for those bad at math that means an average of 1 millimeter thick. Ha). Bring some cord to add to the fixed anchors.

Deep Freeze is all in... except for the part that everyone wants to climb, the pillar at the top of the climb. Give it a good while.

All Mixed up looked good but dripping as we trotted by. Give it a short while, probably a day or two after this storm passes.

The trail was 100% clear of snow.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 1, 2002

Loch Vale Practice area is little more than wet. Some ice has begun to form up but nothing that is climbable for at least another 3-4 weeks. Snow is pretty deep into most areas in the park also. Use caution and watch for avalanche danger.

By Rob
Nov 8, 2002

Climbed Mixed Emotions on November 3 with Irina and Free Strike Zone November 7 with Irina and Rich. Ice curtain is very much in "scarecrow" conditions with highly amusing dry-tooling needed to gain "ice" on left side. There is a fixed pin in place as you gain the ice, but the run-out is hardly trivial before you get a stubby ice screw. Both routes require Power Cams #3-9 and 3 screws, 10 & 13cm. ME is about M6+, WI6R, FSZ about M7+, WI6R. FSZ has three bolts and a pin, but be prepared for sustained and exposed climbing above on weird cam placements. The routes are a little tougher now than when we led them as Irina yanked off a key hook in an icicle. The ice is starting to sublimate and detach, these routes may be past it as you read this.

I noticed that these routes are prone to be top-roped rather than led, inflicting heavy damage to the ice by those unsure how to proceed. These routes are one of the best mixed climbing venues on the east slope. If they exceed your abilities one year it may be best to return later when ability and state of mind permit you to lead them, a far more rewarding experience than puzzling on a top-rope.

Like I said, the ice is thinner than I've ever seen it, reminiscent of the crux pitch on Sea of Vapors, not for the faint of heart.

A most high quality climbing experience, both routes offered difficult and fascinating climbing.

It's cold up there even on warm days. Bring a stove to brew up and down jackets to belay in. The hike is rigorous and if you hurt yourself you're some distance from the road. The routes have an alpine feel, the ratings may not bely their seriousness. The potential for a spectacular lead fall exists on both routes, hence the R designation.

The bolts on FSZ seem sound. The fixed pins on ME and FSZ are not to be trusted to any great extent. A long draw is necessary on the first bolt and a doubled draw on the 3rd to prevent rope drag on a sharp edge. A 70 meter rope is useful.

By Rob
Nov 24, 2002

Okay, here's the deal. Sea of Vapors in February 1996 was in mixed conditions, not the "Canadian Girl" magnitude of the following 1996-7 season when it was Grade 5 with no mixed climbing. You had to climb Postscriptum, set up a belay and then traverse out right across steep limestone to gain thin ice. Everybody said how easy it was, but several people I know or know of took spectacular falls off this bit, ending up well below their belayer. After my ascent, everyone had the benefit of two key fixed pins I had dry-tooled up and placed in the corner above the traverse (I fell off climbing back down to start the traverse). I know everybody used them because when I went back up the following year to do Terminator they were still there. Mixed Emotions in RMNP this year was remiscent of that pitch.

As far as the top-rope issue goes, there wasn't enough ice on the ME curtain this year to drive tools into much less over-drive, it was all hooking, partly to conserve the resource, partly because that's it, that's what the ice would tolerate, you can't overdrive into a pair of two-inch thick icicles stuck to a rock wall, you hook the hole they offer between them, or you bust them off and nobody gets to use them. It ain't the Ouray ice park up there where the ice is nine feet thick.

As far as "sans dragonne" goes, without leashes, I'm all for it. I'm presently using modified Cobras with no components, the Aermet picks are bolted straight to the empty handle, and I use a yates M9 leash. When I identify a leashless tool I think will meet my needs I'll be sure and get a set, right now I like the Cobra, it's an older tool but still gives excellent performance, especially with the Aermet blade.

I can be reached at rccotter@juno.com if you want to talk more or go ice climbing.

Ciao for now

By Craig Quincy
Nov 29, 2002

Climbed at Loch Vale on Thursday 11/28 while others were cooking the Turkey. Perfect day with no wind. Conditions sound similar and perhaps not any fatter than those listed by Leo on 11/17. The trail is still easily walkable. My partner, Dale, led Mixed Feelings by getting a creative RP placement and a good blade placement above the regular piton and to the left of where the ice comes down. The blade is currently insitu if you're game.

The slopes above All Mixed Up do not look particulary hazardous from a distance.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 3, 2003

As of 1-2-03, the conditions in Loch Vale are thin to bad though the BIG flow of easy ice in in thick. Most of the mixed routes can be done if you do not need any ice or ice that is suspect. The area need some more solidification.

John Parsons7205650215

As of 1-2-03, the conditions in Loch Vale are thin to bad though the BIG flow of easy ice is thick.

Most of the mixed routes can be done if you do not need any ice or ice that is suspect. The area need some more solidification.

John Parsons7205650215

By Thomas Jensen
Feb 12, 2003

Nathanial, the ice above Free Strike Zone is basically nonexisent as of 2/9/03, but who needs ice to mixed climb anymore! The whole Loch is not worth the hike in. Dry crappy beat out and thin.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Feb 17, 2003

Mixed Feelings, Mo Flo than Go, Lochluster, et al in that area are thin. Blade Runner only has a tiny bit of ice at the top, but Mixed Feelings has some thin WI5 starting about 2/3 up the face (higher than in Brad's photo from 11/23/01). Bring your shorties.

By Ben Hoyt
Apr 15, 2003

No Deep Freeze, no Necrophilia, and tragically, no Vanquished Buttress. Despite the ?perfect? ice forming conditions, nothing was in this (4/13) weekend. Except a sun-rotted Crypt.

By pornstar
Nov 21, 2005

As of Sunday the 20th there is good climbing.

By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Dec 3, 2007

Eli Helmuth posted a decent guide to Loch Vale Gorge on his website, it is a great overview of this area.

By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 25, 2009

Nice to let this place fully form before hitting it with the tools- mid Dec. is usually the earliest and the later the better.

Knocking on these routes while they are starting to form just prevents them from forming fully if at all..patience is a virtue that benefits all in this well traveled area.

By cride
Jan 2, 2011

If you use GPS, then here is the coordinate for the area where you can immediately see the Mo' Flo' Than Go to your left and the other ice routes to the right (N40 17.635 W105 39.018). Just follow the Loch Vale Trail to that GPS point and you will be set.