Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Crested Butte
|
Origami T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5 Steep Snow R |
|
Real Crabapples (aka Almont Chimney?) T M5 |
|
|
Subalpinism T M4-5 Mod. Snow |
|
|
Unknown T WI4 M5 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown, '80s |
| Page Views: | 1,533 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Krankkala on May 4, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
I am not sure about the history of this route or how frequently it forms.
This has a great second buttress rock, some interesting mixed climbing, and a bit of ice make this a great route close to home.
P1: head up the gully until you hit a short rock step ~25 feet. Climb two more short rock/ice steps to a ledge with a chimney on the left and an OW with a chockstone to the right. It is mostly dry tooling with the occasional bit of ice.
P2: climb the OW with the chockstone, good hooks with a bit of ice. Climb the WI4 runnel, rock pro can be found in either side of the slot if the ice is too thin for screws. Continue up this to the top of the buttress.
Descent: walk over to the Journey Through Gwonondaland anchors. Two raps with a 60m will take you to the base.
This has a great second buttress rock, some interesting mixed climbing, and a bit of ice make this a great route close to home.
P1: head up the gully until you hit a short rock step ~25 feet. Climb two more short rock/ice steps to a ledge with a chimney on the left and an OW with a chockstone to the right. It is mostly dry tooling with the occasional bit of ice.
P2: climb the OW with the chockstone, good hooks with a bit of ice. Climb the WI4 runnel, rock pro can be found in either side of the slot if the ice is too thin for screws. Continue up this to the top of the buttress.
Descent: walk over to the Journey Through Gwonondaland anchors. Two raps with a 60m will take you to the base.
Location
This elusive gem is hidden on the Second Buttress in Taylor Canyon. The climb was found by chance, so I have no idea if it forms on a regular basis. We climbed it in mid-March. To see the second pitch, hike to the top of the wall that holds the routes Persnickety and the Rogue Repeater. Look towards the gully climber's right of Journey Through Gwondonaland, and you may see some ice in a runnel up high. This route can also be seen about 50 feet upstream of mile marker 8 in Taylor Canyon. If you look towards the second buttress, you should be able to identify the second pitch ice if in. Approach in the gully past Journey and Johnny Rotten.
2 Comments