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Loch Lomond

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Loch Lomond  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,500'
Location: 39.8328, -105.6771 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,451
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kyle Douglass on Oct 27, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: One of the boulders at Loch Lomond. This one is c...

Description 

This area is a nice cirque just west of the town of Alice and St. Mary's Glacier. I have been here a number of times, and it tends to be a secluded area, and most anyone who goes there is there for hiking; I have never seen any climbers, but despite that there is a large abundance of bouldering and single-pitch and multipitch climbs to be done. The rock is pretty sharp and can be rough on the hands. Due to the area being new and in the alpine, it is wise to watch out for rocks.

Getting There 

Take I-70 west to exit 238 (Fall River Road, St. Mary's/Alice), the first exit past the town of Idaho Springs. Go north, and follow this (Fall River Road) up past two sets of switchbacks and then a bit farther into the town of Alice. Go left on Alice Road, a dirt road, and follow this to the top of the hill. On the right there will be a gnarly little four-wheel-drive road called Stewart Road, and a sign stating the distance to Loch Lomond. Since I don't have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, I have walked this road numerous times, but it is highly recommended to drive this road if at all possible. Follow the road until it ends a lake, Loch Lomond. On the south side of the lake there is a trail headed up to three other lakes, and the cirque of Loch Lomond.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

45 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',19],['V4-5',12],['V6-7',7],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Loch Lomond:
Doughy   V3 6A     Boulder, Alpine   Reynolds Lake : Reynolds Boulder
Dada Movement   V4 6B     Boulder, Alpine   Middle Ohman : Art Boulder
A River Runs Through It   V4 6B     Boulder, Alpine   Middle Ohman : A River Runs Through It Bou...
Browse More Classics in Loch Lomond

Featured Route For Loch Lomond
Black Boulder - Upper Ohman. <br /> <br />Photo: Andrew Riley.

Black Ness Monster V6 7A  CO : Idaho Springs : ... : Black Boulder
Start low with a left slopey crimp and a right crimp on top of a triangle feature. Move up the boulder using incredible holds, including an awesome undercling....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Loch Lomond Slideshow Add Photo
Loch Lomond. James Peak on the south side of the cirque; Mt. Bancroft on the north.
BETA PHOTO: Loch Lomond. James Peak on the south side of the c...
As you approach Loch Lomond, you will pass this boulder on your right.  The problems I did were all in the V0 range.  Water surrounds parts of the boulder where harder problems exist.
As you approach Loch Lomond, you will pass this bo...
Mt. Bancroft
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Bancroft
Thin fingers on the graffiti strewn boulder close to the lake.  You can't miss this Boulder.  Finger crack goes at approx V1 until you reach the top out, which is V4th class. :-)  There is no walk off.  Downclimb the boulder.
Thin fingers on the graffiti strewn boulder close ...
Loch Lomond as viewed from the back of the cirque.
BETA PHOTO: Loch Lomond as viewed from the back of the cirque.
Ohman Lake.
Ohman Lake.

Comments on Loch Lomond Add Comment
Show which comments
By Abner
Sep 8, 2014
For the past few months, a few of us have been establishing this area even more. We have over 40 problems ranging from V0-V9 (with some definitely harder problems) and still potential for more.

Bear with me as I will be adding everything we have done. Now we are 98 percent sure that the problems we have done were first ascents. We have asked for information on this area, but it seems like whatever is on here is what's out there. We have had to clean and stumble around to find these problems. I am posting with the idea that we are the first to climb these problems. If we are not and you have good information (names of FA, and the problem) about the problems posted, please message me.

Also for the admins, should this be added to Alpine Rock?

Thanks,

Abner
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 9, 2014
In my opinion, you can easily make arguments either way. I think it'll be easier to find as you have entered it here.
By Dave Carey
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 8, 2014
I just saw this on my recommended routes and would prefer to see alpine climbing when I am looking in Alpine Rock and think bouldering in the alpine is not alpine climbing. Similarly, I do not think snow climbs are alpine climbs, but who cares? ;) and I wouldn't fight against anyone putting this in that section of course :) just semantics.

Although, this area does look awesome for bouldering, and I want to go check it out! Maybe there are some alpine routes too!

Cheers