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Location idea for mid-July trip.....
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By Catherine Conner
From Phoenix, AZ
Feb 28, 2013
Contemplative-what is ahead?
I agree with Vedauwoo-pretty, awesome, and just awesome.

FLAG
By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Feb 28, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
averages high 80's in july...i climb in the SE so high 80's with high humidity is the norm. You can kinda chase sun depending what side of the tower your on...Only spent 2 days there in june so i'd ask a local.

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By MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Feb 28, 2013
Me on Supercrack
Andy Laakmann wrote:
Doesn't Devil's Tower ROAST in July?


YES! Did last year anyway. Best be finished climbing by 11 am then spend the rest of the day avoiding heat stroke.

FLAG
By Be Esperanza
From Asheville, NC
Feb 28, 2013
OKellys Crack, J Tree
Independence Pass wasn't my favorite area, but I was only there for a few days clipping bolts. The Voo is cool if you like OWs, but it's not in the most scenic place. It's very close to Interstate 80, and the rock is sharp and mean. It's sort of an acquired tast. Index is probably a little too close to you to be considered a trip. Maybe Montana? I've never been to this crag, but it's been on the summer list for a little while.

mountainproject.com/v/gallatin...

July is actually a tough month if you don't want to go to Squamish, Index, or climb Alpine routes. I've heard great things about the Elephants Perch too.

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By Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Feb 28, 2013
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
Devils Tower is usually hotter than Hades in July. Climbing in the shade is still possible since the thing's a big sundial with routes on all sides, but even the ambient air temperature gets quite hot.

I bet you'd really like Veadauwoo Andy.

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By MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Feb 28, 2013
Me on Supercrack
As far Montana goes Gallatin Canyon has roadside gneiss mountainproject.com/v/gallatin... and Mill Creek mountainproject.com/v/mill-cre... has roadside granite. And if you want to really get away from it all there are several multipitch routes (& some cragging) trad on gneiss within a hour approach in the East Rosebud Canyon. woodandironworks.com/beartooth... They should all be good weather wise then but if we have fires like last year (likely) it won't be all that fun dealing with the haze and restrictions.

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By Ethan Mansfield
Feb 28, 2013
profile picture
Sawtooths. summitpost.org/sawtooth-range/...
Some approaches can be adventurous, but...

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Feb 28, 2013
Andy Laakmann wrote:
Doesn't Devil's Tower ROAST in July?


Yes; it is pretty low in elevation: 4000 feet. For comparison, Wild Iris and Tensleep are at 9000; Independence Pass is at 10,000+. The sundial-shape of the formation allows you to chase shade, but it will be hot regardless. I'd go elsewhere, given the option.

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Feb 28, 2013
There is also Canmore, which certainly won't be too hot. Very pretty up there. Not all chossy limestone too; the quartzite up at Back of the Lake sounds great.

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 28, 2013
Elephant's Perch and City of Rocks look awesome. If you want to hit Cali again, there's Calaveras Dome, the Redwood Coast, Tahoe and the entire west side of the Sierra: Southern Yosemite, Shuteye Ridge, Courtright Reservoir, etc.

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By Nick Votto
Feb 28, 2013
Bolton, VT
JCM wrote:
A few options: Elephant's Perch, Idaho. Not too far from Bend. There is a hke in, but you can go in for a little while and camp. Semi-alpine. Independence Pass, CO. A wide range of climbing on mostly single-pitch granite crags. Mostly roadside. High elevation (good temps). Scenic. Not a mega-destination like T. Meadows, but you'd have a great time here for a week. Tensleep, WY. Have you been yet? Though a sport area, it still seems to win the hearts of even the most traditionally-inclined. The rock, the scenery, the camping, and the summer weather are all superb. Index, WA. Mini-Squamish. In July, there is even a chance that it won't rain on you.


+ 1 for Tensleep if your willing to clip bolts, was there for 3 days last July and didn't see a single climber besides Jonathan Seigrist who was only camped next to us

Also Indy Pass is awesome

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 28, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
There is also Canmore, which certainly won't be too hot. Very pretty up there. Not all chossy limestone too; the quartzite up at Back of the Lake sounds great

One of the BEST 2 week trips I have enjoyed.... It was fantastic.

Back of the Lake ... best sport climbing ever.

You can go crampon if you wish to do some killer peaks...

Great camping... nothing like friendly campground host with wildlife walking through your campsite.

Very fun locals who will show you a good time.

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Feb 28, 2013
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
Guy Keesee wrote:
There is also Canmore, which certainly won't be too hot. Very pretty up there. Not all chossy limestone too; the quartzite up at Back of the Lake sounds great One of the BEST 2 week trips I have enjoyed.... It was fantastic. Back of the Lake ... best sport climbing ever. You can go crampon if you wish to do some killer peaks... Great camping... nothing like friendly campground host with wildlife walking through your campsite. Very fun locals who will show you a good time.


I was wondering about that area too. Any long multipitch routes that can avoid snow on the approach or descent?

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By Sean Nelb
From Grand Junction, CO
Feb 28, 2013
Some Like it Hot (5.12b). Devils Tower, WY
Andy Laakmann wrote:
Doesn't Devil's Tower ROAST in July?


The temps can be hot, usually in the 90's and sometimes cracking 100, but as long as you chase the shade it is actually very doable. The west face is shady until 1 pm or so and is home to many 5.10-5.12 cracks. Once the sun hits I usually roll around to the north or east sides.

I see a lot of climbers making a circuit through the Black Hills and Ten Sleep in the summer. The elevation at the Needles and Ten Sleep keeps a bit of the heat off.

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Feb 28, 2013
Andy Laakmann wrote:
I was wondering about that area too. Any long multipitch routes that can avoid snow on the approach or descent?


Yes, quite a bit, it sounds like. Really long rock routes, at that. Some fully bolted long routes, some mixed-pro routes, and some chossy limestone trad adventures. Yamnuska and the Ghost River are two of the lower-lying, non-snowy areas for long rock routes. I think that the hikes are typically long-ish (it ain't Squamish...)

I've been up there, but haven't climbed there, so I can't tell you too much more than that. The scenery is amazing.

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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 28, 2013
Andrew Gram
If you haven't been to the Needles in South Dakota, i'd highly recommend it. One of the more unique areas around. You can easily go to Devils Tower for a day or two if there is a fairly cool day, though I usually find July to be pretty hot there.

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By Kirk B.
From Boise, ID
Feb 28, 2013
belay slaving on some route I forgot the name of w...
I'd go to the Elephant's Perch, But I may be biased. Last time I was there was in July, & it was fricken glorious. Plenty of skeeters, but just bivy in a breezy spot, and it's fine.

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By bearbreeder
Feb 28, 2013
Andy Laakmann wrote:
I was wondering about that area too. Any long multipitch routes that can avoid snow on the approach or descent?



theres tons of sport multi that goes up the mountain ... east end of rundle, ha ling, grand sentinal ... all bolted

and theres tons of trad

and perhaps the most beautiful climbing area in canada ... lake louise

aug is better than july though for canmore/banff

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Feb 28, 2013
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
Andrew Gram wrote:
If you haven't been to the Needles in South Dakota, i'd highly recommend it. One of the more unique areas around. You can easily go to Devils Tower for a day or two if there is a fairly cool day, though I usually find July to be pretty hot there.


Is there enough (sane) stuff in the needles for a week? Doesn't seem like there is much trad, or am I missing it?

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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 28, 2013
Andrew Gram
There is a lot of trad - the runout death routes get the press, but they are certainly not the only thing there. You won't really find routes longer than 3 pitches, but you'll find dense concentrations of really good 1-3 pitch routes with short approaches, usually ending on top of really unique summits.

Emancipation area at Rushmore has lots of really good 2-4 pitch trad lines. The sport climbing at Rushmore is really, really good too. Neat to clip bolts on high quality stone that ends on top of a tiny little spire - nothing else quite like it.

Around Sylvan Lake, the Outlets have really good trad routes. Classics include the Conn Diagonal and Nick of Time on Outer Outlet, Classic Crack on the Inner Outlet, and shorter routes like Sex Never Did This to my Hands, Three Rings for the Elven Kings, etc. Lots of good sport and mixed bolts/gear/runout climbs around too.

Moving into the Needles, must do routes that won't kill you would be the Tricouni Nail, Tent Peg, couple of routes on the Bell Tower, Gnomon, Nantucket Sleigh Ride, etc. Lots of scarier classics at all grades too like the Needles Eye(really worth doing), Patience, Superpin, Hairy Pin, and End Pin.

The Cathedral Spires are stacked with longer adventure routes. Spires 1-4 are really great 5.easy routes up impressive granite towers. Cool historical climbs, and you can do a lot of climbing in a hurry. There are also harder trad lines like God's Own Drunk, Eyetooth, East Gruesome, etc.

You could easily spend a week just climbing the safe trad lines in the area. Start adding the sport routes or mixed bolts/trad routes and you have many weeks of climbing. The runout climbing is fairly reasonable since the friction is so good and secure, so it is not as intimidating as climbing X rated routes in a place like Yosemite.

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By 20 kN
Administrator
From Hawaii
Feb 28, 2013
Andy Laakmann wrote:
Does the Nose come with a stipend for divorce attorneys?

Only if you top out. Too many clients are half-assing it, going in for the plunge only to find it's not right for them.

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By Bryan G
From San Jose
Feb 28, 2013
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders
If you haven't been there, Vedauwoo and Lumpy Ridge are just a couple hours away from each other and two of the best trad crags around. Do a couple days at each and maybe also hit one bigger climb in RMNP.

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By RKM
From Alpine, Utah
Feb 28, 2013
Another day at Red Rocks.  Photo by Joanne Urioste
I would have to second City of Rocks/Castle Rocks. Miles of moderate climbing yards from the road. The best routes are trad. Great camping. Always nice in the shade - and you can always find shade.

Where else can you do a dozen classic pitches a day, eat at a resturant and soak in the hot springs.

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By Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 1, 2013
Third pillar of dana descent.
Plus one for city of rocks!

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By JJNS
Mar 1, 2013
Bow Valley:dpmclimbing.com/climbing-video...

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