|The Big Wall
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Jonathan Garlough & James Dickson|
|Page Views: ||806|
|Submitted By: ||chinos on Jun 11, 2012|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Jon Garlough and Chris Magness on Locals Only
Start the same as Never Mind The Bollocks. The route was climbed as one long pitch on the first ascent.
P1: Climb the opening slab past two bolts to the tree ledge with the large pine. Move right and up a short block to gain the overlap (bolt). Make difficult moves to gain the large flake and a bolt. Climb the flake and continue up past another bolt to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 90’ 5.10a
P2: Climb the flakes and face placing gear to a small pine below the roof. Move up some stacked blocks to a stance (bolt). Move right out the corner/aręte on a mild run-out to a piece before you pull through the roof and onto a huge ledge (The Chinos Lounge). Move up one more tier to a two bolt anchor on the summit block. 80’ 5.10a PG
Up on a block right of Wets Lichen Dreams. Same as Nevermind The Bollocks
Bring A Standard Rack
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Lincoln Tetherly on P1 of Locals Only
|By chris magness|
Jun 23, 2012
The second pitch of this route is one of Longstack's better offerings. The climbing at the crux is somewhat bold, if you can't onsight 5.10 this pitch is not for you.