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The Big Wall
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Adventure Punks 
Arete, The 
Chenoo 
Graceful Tiers 
Happy Ending 
It's a Good Day to Die 
Layback Route 
Locals Only 
Nevermind The Bollocks 
P.I. Dreams 
Porno Poison Ivy 
Rampage 
Riptide 
She's Out of Reach 
Steve Garvey Memorial Route 
Tree Hugger 
Wet Lichen Dreams 

Locals Only 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough & James Dickson
Page Views: 841
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012
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Jon Garlough and Chris Magness on Locals Only

Description 

Start the same as Never Mind The Bollocks. The route was climbed as one long pitch on the first ascent.
P1: Climb the opening slab past two bolts to the tree ledge with the large pine. Move right and up a short block to gain the overlap (bolt). Make difficult moves to gain the large flake and a bolt. Climb the flake and continue up past another bolt to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 90’ 5.10a
P2: Climb the flakes and face placing gear to a small pine below the roof. Move up some stacked blocks to a stance (bolt). Move right out the corner/aręte on a mild run-out to a piece before you pull through the roof and onto a huge ledge (The Chinos Lounge). Move up one more tier to a two bolt anchor on the summit block. 80’ 5.10a PG


Location 

Up on a block right of Wets Lichen Dreams. Same as Nevermind The Bollocks


Protection 

Bring A Standard Rack



Photos of Locals Only Slideshow Add Photo
Jonathan Garlough climbs out the roof on Locals Only
Jonathan Garlough climbs out the roof on Locals On...
Jon Garlough and Jon (Baldy) on Locals Only. You can see the Arete in the background
Jon Garlough and Jon (Baldy) on Locals Only. You c...
Lincoln Tetherly on P1 of Locals Only
Lincoln Tetherly on P1 of Locals Only
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By chris magness
Jun 23, 2012

The second pitch of this route is one of Longstack's better offerings. The climbing at the crux is somewhat bold, if you can't onsight 5.10 this pitch is not for you.