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Locals Only 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough & James Dickson
Page Views: 1,085
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Jon Garlough and Chris Magness on Locals Only

Description 

Start the same as Never Mind The Bollocks. The route was climbed as one long pitch on the first ascent.
P1: Climb the opening slab past two bolts to the tree ledge with the large pine. Move right and up a short block to gain the overlap (bolt). Make difficult moves to gain the large flake and a bolt. Climb the flake and continue up past another bolt to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 90’ 5.10a
P2: Climb the flakes and face placing gear to a small pine below the roof. Move up some stacked blocks to a stance (bolt). Move right out the corner/aręte on a mild run-out to a piece before you pull through the roof and onto a huge ledge (The Chinos Lounge). Move up one more tier to a two bolt anchor on the summit block. 80’ 5.10a PG

Location 

Up on a block right of Wets Lichen Dreams. Same as Nevermind The Bollocks

Protection 

Bring A Standard Rack


Photos of Locals Only Slideshow Add Photo
Jonathan Garlough climbs out the roof on Locals Only
Jonathan Garlough climbs out the roof on Locals On...
Jon Garlough and Jon (Baldy) on Locals Only. You can see the Arete in the background
Jon Garlough and Jon (Baldy) on Locals Only. You c...
Lincoln Tetherly on P1 of Locals Only
Lincoln Tetherly on P1 of Locals Only

Comments on Locals Only Add Comment
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By chris magness
Jun 23, 2012

The second pitch of this route is one of Longstack's better offerings. The climbing at the crux is somewhat bold, if you can't onsight 5.10 this pitch is not for you.
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Oct 1, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I found the first pitch of this to be quite good.

Nice slab moves at the beginning and end of the pitch. There was a sweet flake and fun roof problem as well. It's possible (although a bit reachy) to pull the roof right at the bolt.

My only complaint from this being a classic pitch is the dirty scramble on the tree ledge after the initial slab. There is also some suspect rock in this section just below the roof, although it's easily avoided.

Can't comment on the second pitch as I've only done the rampage variation so far.