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Local Wisdom 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 429
Submitted By: Rough on Mar 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This is the upper pitch to either Step Up or On Deck. From their anchors, go up and around some fairly loose blocks to the base of a defined arete. Head up this arete on fun moves on pockets and feldspar bands. Great exposure!

Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchors


Comments on Local Wisdom Add Comment
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By brucy
Apr 27, 2010

Take care on the bolt off the no hands ledge with regard to falling on to the ledge from above.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5 bolts, chains or 9 bolts and long runners if you want to extend from either On Deck or Step up. A little loose on the shelf but that's true at almost any area. Bring runners to avoid drag if doing it in a single push. Also be mindful a 70 meter rope just barely (like knot in end) reaches when lowering from the top anchor (with gear in place).

Nice route, one of the must-do's for the area IMO.
By BAd
Dec 4, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I want to second Brucy's comment about the first bolt on the arete above the first "belay." If you go direct and peel before clipping the next bolt, major impact awaits. I chickened out and climbed somewhat up the easier corner to the right and made a big reach left for the clip--phew!

BAd