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Unsorted Routes:

Lobotomy 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 7, 2012
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Description 

You might feel like you've had a Lobotomy after climbing this OW to finger endurance fest! Easy stemming gives way to #6 Camalot fist stacks in a flare followed by some knee rests. Next comes the dreaded #4's with steep hand stacking that gradually tapers down to fists, hands, ringlocks and finally fingers at the anchor. Bring your A-game!


Location 

Two routes left of Str8 Jacket.


Protection 

Two each .4 to #3, three each #4 to #6, one #3.5 (Camalots).



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By Ryan Z
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

This is an awesome climb! I definitely would not bring doubles from fingers to #3 next time I do it. You want as little gear as possible on you for the #6 section. Your gear will get caught on everything. One of the cruxes for me was just flipping gear from one side to the other over and over as you alternate sides. Get on this enduro OW fest!