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Dewey Bridge
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Albino Groove T 
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Loathing- Less Clothing T 

Loathing- Less Clothing 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A0 [details]
FA: Charlie french, Cameron Burns 1997
Page Views: 629
Submitted By: Dana Prosser on Mar 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Topping out!!!

Description 

This small formation is a fun, short climbing outing if in the area. P1- start up loose, blocky chimney and head left when possible on low angle ramp. This was a pretty moderate pitch (5.3?) and felt comfortable to solo.-50ft
P2- Jam 5.7 handcrack for 15ft, and head right to obvious ledge. Clip pin and make 1 aid move (step in etriers) to top of formation and rap anchor. -40ft
You can now sit back and take in views of the colorado river, and the surrounding desert landscape-you will likely not be disappointed....


Location 

From Rte. 128 (River road) head north on dirt road a few hundred feet upriver of Dewey bridge. The road has a sign indicating a junction with the Kokopelli Mountainbike trail. Drive through Cattlegate and continue about a mile until the tower
comes into view. Road becomes rough near the towers, so park before switchbacks. Route is on west facing side of formation. Warning: Tower is labeled incorrectly in Desert rock III book.


Protection 

Single set of cams, 60m rope, 1 etrier (or over-the-shoulder sling would work).



Photos of Loathing- Less Clothing Slideshow Add Photo
Start of Pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Start of Pitch 1
View of tower- Loathing is the tower to the right.
BETA PHOTO: View of tower- Loathing is the tower to the right.
Start of P2
BETA PHOTO: Start of P2
at the pin
at the pin
Comments on Loathing- Less Clothing Add Comment
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Mar 16, 2009

I did a variation to the first pitch. Not sure if it's been done before. Judging by the amount of dirt and sand I cleaned out of it, I would guess not. Call it Loathing Direct, maybe? It starts directly under the second pitch and goes up an obvious flaring crack. I french freed it at 5.7 C0. It would probably go free at 5.9? I wasn't feeling that adventurous, though...

Fun little tower. Pretty sandy, but an easy tick. I soloed it and I had some trouble finding a good anchor at the bottom for the rope. I ended up using a second rope to tie off a tree that was pretty far away and then slung and clove hitched a natural hole in the rock at the base of the direct route.

There are two fixed pins, a few slings, and a quick link and biner for the anchors. Everything looked solid.

By colin tuck
From: Fairbanks
Apr 17, 2013

To add to Tristan, starting directly below is definitely the way to go. There is a short 5.7+ offwidth/chimney (sandy but easy to protect) followed by a cool handcrack around a roof (5.9?) that also takes great gear. Somehow, we turned this 70 feet of climbing into a 3 pitch adventure.

By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Oct 16, 2013

we did it in one pitch. took the 3rd class ramp right then cut back left placing no pro until the business. we took the crack just left of the roof. 5.7++D, but only for a couple of moves. the aid part is gravy. bring at least one 3.5, or 4 camalot size as the crack does widen. fun little tower. easy bag and tag.
just as a side note; if your planning on doing Fear, i thought it was a lot closer to A3 than A1.