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Loafer's Choice Slab
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Loafer's Choice 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Ficker, Jim Zahn. Jim Waugh. Glen Dickinson, 1979
Page Views: 942
Submitted By: Brian Boyd on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Mid Route, Loafers Choice.

Description 

Sustained slab climbing on small edges. Unlike many of the nearby routes, you can walk to the top to set up a TR.


Protection 

Four bolts to the traditional finish, which is a no-anchor belay in the hole. Alternately, you can climb past an additional bolt to a set of anchors at the very top. Long runners helpful if toproping. Bad fall potential getting to the first bolt; small gear can be used to protect the start.



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By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 6, 2009

Fun climb, rating feels soft for Pinnacle. Well-bolted with lots of good rests.

The two anchor bolts at top can be easily reinforced with a couple medium cams.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 28, 2010

I vote solid for the grade. I thought it was soft, but that was the first time I led it and weenied off rightwards to the arete. I looked at the direct finish and rationalized to myself "that doesn't look too hard, I'll just take the way that seems less runout". However, a friend's whippers on the direct finish the other day inspired me to keep going straight up, and that, my friends, is where the business of the route is. Right off the fourth bolt, there are several good slab cruxes and you start looking at a little air time on moves you wish you had a jug to pull on.

Fun route and a little run out at the top despite the retrobolting.