This route is situated roughly in the middle of the wall, ascending a slab to the left side of a large roof. Near the top is a surprise move with gear below your feet. Overall, this route is worth doing as a warm-up for the other fine routes at this crag, but not necessarily worth going to climb it all by itself.
Standard rack including stoppers and camming units.
BETA PHOTO: Loaf and Jug follows the crack on the left side of...
|By Larry Shaw|
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Easy climbing to a high step finish...very short.
From: Salida, CO
Jul 7, 2011
Falcon guidebook rates this as "popular and fun" - didn't think this was a good one for the first time leader - pro was not great - had to clean a bunch of dirt out of cracks - although the climbing was relatively easy until you hit a polished section with a lot of exposure and had to make a desperate move for a sloper. High step finish brings you to a ledge with a bunch of sand and loose stones. Better to top rope off the bolts that are easily accessed from the top.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
The move at the top is a surprise - at least 5.9 (UK 5a/b) in my opinion - the rest of the climbing is about 5.5 so the grade of 5.7 only makes sense if you take an average!