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River Wall
Routes Sorted
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Blood Brothers T,S 
Captain Cod Piece T 
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Far Left Dihedral Crack T 
Flat Earth Society S 
Getting Older T 
Glimpse of Perfection 
Hebrew Hangover S 
Life on the Run T 
Loaf and Jug T 
Midday Lightning S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Loaf and Jug 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stewart Green and Martha Morris
Page Views: 713
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Loaf and Jug goes up the slab to the left of the b...

Description 

This route is situated roughly in the middle of the wall, ascending a slab to the left side of a large roof. Near the top is a surprise move with gear below your feet. Overall, this route is worth doing as a warm-up for the other fine routes at this crag, but not necessarily worth going to climb it all by itself.


Protection 

Standard rack including stoppers and camming units.



Photos of Loaf and Jug Slideshow Add Photo
Loaf and Jug follows the crack on the left side of the slab.
BETA PHOTO: Loaf and Jug follows the crack on the left side of...
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By Larry Shaw
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Easy climbing to a high step finish...very short.

By Blazer
From: Salida, CO
Jul 7, 2011

Falcon guidebook rates this as "popular and fun" - didn't think this was a good one for the first time leader - pro was not great - had to clean a bunch of dirt out of cracks - although the climbing was relatively easy until you hit a polished section with a lot of exposure and had to make a desperate move for a sloper. High step finish brings you to a ledge with a bunch of sand and loose stones. Better to top rope off the bolts that are easily accessed from the top.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The move at the top is a surprise - at least 5.9 (UK 5a/b) in my opinion - the rest of the climbing is about 5.5 so the grade of 5.7 only makes sense if you take an average!