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Wisconsin Strip
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Lloyd's Lament 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,117
Submitted By: Colin Erskine on Feb 6, 2006
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A beginner climber on Lloyd's Lament.

Description 

An easy climb, but a fun one for kids. Just a little difficult at the end, but otherwise just fun. To get to this route, you will find an access gully at the north end of the cliff. This is a 5.4 descent with a slightly tricky slab at the bottom, so you may want to hang some webbing for safety or even rope up. The first inside corner on the cliff with a big column at its base is where this climb starts.


Protection 

none



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By Glenn Burns
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 5, 2006

I disagree that there's no pro on this route. It is a trad route and is very much protectable with a standard rack.

The finish is the crux... lamenting how to finish it is what Lloyd did, and I imagine he lamented for a while as I did when I lead the route.

By Erik Olson
Jul 23, 2007

I totally agree with Glenn. The route can be protected and the last move is definitely what Lloyd was lamenting.

By Andrew Krosbakken
Nov 12, 2008

I lead this route also, It takes gear just fine you just have to look. You don't even have to look that hard. It takes anything from small nuts to a 2 or 3 BD C4 cam.

Oh and the roof is really fun to pull. :)

By Sarah K
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 1, 2009

I agree this route is leadable. I started on the right side of the column. Good cam placement and a solid chock to sling halfway up.