|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 25'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Brian Shelton, Mark Tjaden, and Stewart Green|
|Submitted By:||Nate Reno on Feb 25, 2012|
|Comments on Lloyd||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 7, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
There are actually two cracks that can be climbed. One to the right of "Harry" at the corner of a left-facing dihedral. It takes mostly 0.75 and #1 cams. Only about 30 ft tall. No anchors. Watch out for loose rock.
The one to the left of Harry is even shorter (about 20 ft tall), takes small cams (0.3 to 0.75). There's one clip at the top about 6 feet left of the anchors for Harry.
Both cracks are about the same difficulty -- about 5.7.
By Stewart M. Green
Jun 26, 2012
|First ascent Brian Shelton, Mark Tjaden, and Stewart Green.|
By Justin Deal
From: Denver, CO
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|The top of this route has some very dangerous loose rocks on it. We traversed left on the ledge to the 11a anchors for a quick rap down just to the left of the crack. I put a nut in to lower my girlfriend onto the anchors to make it a little easier for her, and the rope got behind one of the 100 plus pound rocks and pulled it off the ledge. Very scary. There are still loose rocks on the ledge. This route has definitely not seen much traffic and is not really worth climbing in my opinion, because it's too short, the descent is not very good, and the route climbed like Eldo 5.5.|