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Unsorted Routes:

Lloyd 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brian Shelton, Mark Tjaden, and Stewart Green
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Nate Reno on Feb 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This route has short, moderate, crack and face climbing with some sharp holds on the top half. It doesn't look like this has seen much traffic yet.

There is a directional bolt at the top that can be used from Harry's anchors.


Location 

It is one route left of Harry (2 routes left of #1 Super Guy, right around the corner).


Protection 

Small-medium stoppers.



Comments on Lloyd Add Comment
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By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 7, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There are actually two cracks that can be climbed. One to the right of "Harry" at the corner of a left-facing dihedral. It takes mostly 0.75 and #1 cams. Only about 30 ft tall. No anchors. Watch out for loose rock.

The one to the left of Harry is even shorter (about 20 ft tall), takes small cams (0.3 to 0.75). There's one clip at the top about 6 feet left of the anchors for Harry.

Both cracks are about the same difficulty -- about 5.7.

By Stewart M. Green
Jun 26, 2012

First ascent Brian Shelton, Mark Tjaden, and Stewart Green.

By Justin Deal
From: Denver, CO
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The top of this route has some very dangerous loose rocks on it. We traversed left on the ledge to the 11a anchors for a quick rap down just to the left of the crack. I put a nut in to lower my girlfriend onto the anchors to make it a little easier for her, and the rope got behind one of the 100 plus pound rocks and pulled it off the ledge. Very scary. There are still loose rocks on the ledge. This route has definitely not seen much traffic and is not really worth climbing in my opinion, because it's too short, the descent is not very good, and the route climbed like Eldo 5.5.