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Punch and Judy Towers
Routes Sorted
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Good To Go S 
Just Do It S 
Lizard Marmalade Direct T 
Lizard Marmelade, Girlie Man's var. T 
Mondo Bizzaro T 
Power Hungry S 
Sheik Yerbouti T 
Triple Play S 

Lizard Marmalade Direct 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle
Page Views: 4,034
Submitted By: WSnyder on Mar 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Geir Hundal placing pro on this long climb

Description 

One of the best trad pitches on the mountain and a must do. The gear placements are there but may not be right where you want them which provides for a real thrill.


Location 

Right and downhill from the sport climbs at the left of crag. Up the large left-facing dihedral w/cracks, take the smaller crack almost straight up and slightly right at ~15-20 feet. Down-climb tree off the backside of the formation to get down (if is it still there).


Protection 

Gear



Photos of Lizard Marmalade Direct Slideshow Add Photo
That was a super fun climb!! I love Mt Lemmon!!! Myself on the redpoint.
That was a super fun climb!! I love Mt Lemmon!!! M...
The line to the right of the chimney, all the way up!!
The line to the right of the chimney, all the way ...
A classic frightener - and that's just the down climb through the tree.
A classic frightener - and that's just the down cl...
Getting ready for the main course.
Getting ready for the main course.
Comments on Lizard Marmalade Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
May 5, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Up-top, we replaced the old drop-in with brand-new bomber ASCA rap anchors, installed near the old anchor but a bit off to the side. Use the closest new hanger in conjunction with the remaining good Petzl hanger to bring up your second. Thanks to Eric Rulijancich for his help upgrading this route. Also, someone recently sawed off the tree branches, rendering the down-climb sketchier...

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2007

Memorable route, and memorable route name!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 12, 2009

This climb is fantastic; it is perhaps the best single pitch climb on Mount Lemmon! Doubles of small cams are helpful on this one if you'd like a lot of pro.

By Bladrey Chan
Apr 12, 2009

there is also a set of anchors on the east side of the tower to rap from. be careful accessing them as they are on a sloping ledge. nothing too scary, but it wouldn't be fun to slip.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 5, 2009

You can rap off the belay bolts too (into the gully w the trees).
A bit of a hard pull to get the rope back but that's about it.

P.S. Please don't take the biner left on the anchor, it's there for community use.

By MattB
Jan 14, 2010

The tree is doing well, looks better than 10 years ago... it's pretty easy to use a rope through the anchors to help get into the tree, then pull when still high in it(saving lots of rope wear). Mondo Classic route!!

By Ben Venter
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

One of the best routes in Southern Arizona for sure. A few exciting thin moves in the middle to a steep, juggy and interesting finish. Engaging to the last move. Double cams from tips sized to thin hands did not feel excessive. Single 1, 2 and 3 camalot and a set of nuts. A little spicy in the middle but the good placements are there. The downclimb into the tree was exciting but quite secure.

By Jimbo
May 6, 2014

I've always thought we should install an actual rap from this thing before someone snaps off a limb from that tired tree we all down climb. That tree is definitely showing signs of abuse. It's not nearly as healthy as it was in 1996 the first time I did LMD.