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Lizard King Arete 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Walker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: john walker on May 20, 2004

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Description 

Lizard King Arete is located left of Somewhere East of Fresno and Uff Da-hedral, look for the striking arete with bolts directly left of a very blank face. Easy opening moves on bolts and gear lead to a 5.10 crack system. Climb onto the arete and be the Lizard King.........


Protection 

Start by clipping a few bolts that protect the opening moves, place some small Stoppers and cams after that. Move up to fist crack where #1,2,3 Camalots protect well, use slings to prevent rope drag. You can clip the first bolt on the arete with gear at your waist. Climb onto the arete and clip bolts to the fixed anchor.



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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 16, 2004

11 quickdraws will constitute a rack for this route.A must do.

By johnnie walker
Oct 9, 2008

WTF,
Who added bolts to a route that Brent Kurtzman and I put up, "top down, of course"? What sort of unethical, dolt o matic would do such a thing. Oh well, maybe it's safer and who wants to carry all that climber stuff around anyway. Still a must do, maybe.