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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Rdside Rocks
> Rdside Rocks -…
> Lizard's Hangout
Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 1 from 6
votes
Routes in Lizard's Hangout
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Alligator Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chicken Lizard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Goeb's Goes Gecko T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Left Lizard Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lizard Breath Arden (aka Lizard Robbins) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lizard Skin (aka Blue Belly) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lizard Taylor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Off to See the Lizard (aka Komodo Dragon) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Poodle Lizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Progressive Lizard T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Right Lizard Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 889 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 26, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
I saw a lot of people tossing themselves at this climb multiple times over the course of an afternoon at Lizard Rock, and amusingly enough, all at different places on the route. The position of the crux will depend upon your climbing strengths and weaknesses.
On the SW face, find a obtuse, rounded corner with a flake just to the left of the bottom of it. This lies 3-4 meters left of the Left Lizard Crack and 1 meter right of Progressive Lizard.
Climb up onto the flake on the left and reach the crack system right. Continue up, eventually going right out of the very shallow corner onto a face, which soon becomes lower angle. Alternatively, we also have climbed up further, continuing in the crack a little longer to the top (same grade). [Edit - This route is the same as the False Cilley Toprope (page 31, Bartlett guide). The boulder start is the crux, while starting on Progressive Lizard to the leftand cutting over makes this 5.10a.]
On the SW face, find a obtuse, rounded corner with a flake just to the left of the bottom of it. This lies 3-4 meters left of the Left Lizard Crack and 1 meter right of Progressive Lizard.
Climb up onto the flake on the left and reach the crack system right. Continue up, eventually going right out of the very shallow corner onto a face, which soon becomes lower angle. Alternatively, we also have climbed up further, continuing in the crack a little longer to the top (same grade). [Edit - This route is the same as the False Cilley Toprope (page 31, Bartlett guide). The boulder start is the crux, while starting on Progressive Lizard to the leftand cutting over makes this 5.10a.]
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