Mountain Project: Climbing Wasatch Range

The south facing wall that lies between the Altered States Gully and The Fin. Although lacking in shear quantity of climbs, this wall does offer the climber a couple quality crack lines as well as an absolutely delightful slab climb. You will almost certainly be guaranteed solitude as well.

Getting There

We followed the approch to Altered States Gully which included finding a cairn about 100 feet to the east of the church archives road. The cairn marks a good trail that puts you high in the gully. We then dropped down the gully until an westward traverse can be made to the next south-facing wall. This is it.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lizard Head Wall:

Part Time Crack 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Squeeze My Lemon 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch

Zesty 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet

Blue Collar Crack 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 185 feet

Unknown Slab/Crack 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet

Errant Edge 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Maverick Line 5.10 PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Manager's Special 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Unknown Slab 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Cashmere Crack 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Zigzag 5.10d PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet

Featured Route For Lizard Head Wall

Squeeze My Lemon follows the nice hand crack in the middle of the photo

Squeeze My Lemon 5.7 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Lizard Head Wall

As you approach Lizard Head Wall, this climb is the obvious vegetated splitter hand crack located on the east side of the wall. Start in the bushes on a right slanting ledge that gains a flaring splitter crack. Fire up this, surmounting the large foliage to a beautiful hands splitter. Continue following this crack until it trends left and runs out. Make a step left into a short dihedral with......you guessed it......great hands again. Follow this to a tree anchor. Descend the route easily ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Lizard Head Wall

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By Sunny-D
From: SLC, Utah
Jun 12, 2008

There is a better trail that follows the fin approach trail. 50-ish feet from the road cut left by a carn. Follow the trail through the woods. When you come to a big opening with a boulder sitting in the middle of it follow a faint trail, on the west side of the boulder, up the hill through an opening and up to the base of the climbs. 10 minute approach tops. As of right now there are 9 climbs that I know of in this area. 5.5 to 5.11b/c

By tenesmus
Jun 30, 2008

For those wanting to find a good place to tr some routes this is for you. You can scramble to the right of the butress and back to its top via a ramp system that offers amazing views of Altered States gully. From there head east to the anchor of Redneck slab to tr that and a short rap to the second pitch belay of Blue Collar crack with the faces to either side.

If you go west you can belay (behind a block) your partner as they do the easy 5th class down climb to the anchors of King Lizard to TR that.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 29, 2009

There is an insane OW around the right of Errant Edge, facing East. I belayed Tristan H. on a very gallant attempt that ended on the main overhanging OW. I know some other guys worked on it later the same day. Does anyone have any knowledge about this line? It seems impossible that such and obvious line hasn't been done by now. If not; wow...what a proud FA it would be.

By tenesmus
Jul 29, 2009

Pretty sure its been done. How solid is the chockstone now?

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 29, 2009

Done by whom? The chokestone is indestructible for now...

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 3, 2009

Funny how these things work... Done (not by me!!) and the chokestone came out, apparently with a minor nudge.

By tenesmus
Mar 22, 2010

Sorry, but this has been done and is called Cashmere Crack

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Lizard Head Wall

Description

Getting There

The Classics