Living with the Apes
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This is the leftmost bolted route on The Zoo rock. Although the cliff does extend for a little ways to the left of this route, it is approximately in the middle of the cliff. Look for the bolts leading up just to the left of a small dihedral. The moves on this route are consistently difficult. There are two cruxes, and both of them are well protected. This route is significantly harder if the quickdraws are not already hung. Unless you are very tall, expect some difficulties reaching the bolts when hanging the 'draws. Aside from being poorly bolted (don't worry, it's still well protected, it's just that every bolt seems to be about 6 inches out of reach), this is a pretty good route. Practice up on your slab technique, though.
9 quickdraws and something for the anchor. a 50m rope will be enough to get you down.
|Comments on Living with the Apes
|By Ken Leiden|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2003
I was here last Thu for the first time. There is a large nest about 40 ft up the cliff. I'm certainly no expert, but there was a good-sized raptor that flew away when I was within 50 ft of the base of the Zoo (coming from Animal World). We bailed. The routes are within feet of the nest so I suggest staying away. Anyone else been there this season?
|By David A. Turner|
Nov 7, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
While not essential, some may find a 1" to 2" cam below the first bolt to be helpful. Nice climbing with no raptor issues that I noticed, at least in the fall.