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Living with the Apes S 
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Primate Studies S 

Living with the Apes 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Jessie Guthrie
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the leftmost bolted route on The Zoo rock. Although the cliff does extend for a little ways to the left of this route, it is approximately in the middle of the cliff. Look for the bolts leading up just to the left of a small dihedral. The moves on this route are consistently difficult. There are two cruxes, and both of them are well protected. This route is significantly harder if the quickdraws are not already hung. Unless you are very tall, expect some difficulties reaching the bolts when hanging the 'draws. Aside from being poorly bolted (don't worry, it's still well protected, it's just that every bolt seems to be about 6 inches out of reach), this is a pretty good route. Practice up on your slab technique, though.

Protection 

9 quickdraws and something for the anchor. a 50m rope will be enough to get you down.


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By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2003

I was here last Thu for the first time. There is a large nest about 40 ft up the cliff. I'm certainly no expert, but there was a good-sized raptor that flew away when I was within 50 ft of the base of the Zoo (coming from Animal World). We bailed. The routes are within feet of the nest so I suggest staying away. Anyone else been there this season?
By David A. Turner
Nov 7, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

While not essential, some may find a 1" to 2" cam below the first bolt to be helpful. Nice climbing with no raptor issues that I noticed, at least in the fall.