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Willow River State Park
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Living Slightly Larger 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Jun 7, 2008

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Chris Hirsch grabbing the lip and trying not to sw...

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Description 

This route forces some of the biggest reachs I have ever done. Starting below a two-tiered roof on tan rock, climb up to the roof and prepare to be dumbfounded. Figure out some kind of sequence with many of these partial holds and hold on long enough to reach the bomber jug. From here the next move is a huge deadpoint through the tan scar into another good pocket. Then climb out the lip for two more bolts. And there is some loose flakes on this face, so be cautious.

Location 

This route stands alone about 30' to the left of 'Water Music'/'Brass Monkey'.

Protection 

Bolts. There isn't a two bolt anchor, just a single bolt right below the huge roof. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.


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By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 8, 2008

Nice work Chris! It's cool to see people getting some new routes done at the park. Keep crankin' man.