Living in Fear  5.13d

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Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.13d [details] FA:  Scott Frye Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Nov 5, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is the lefmost "tall" line on the Project Wall (Sick Little Monkey climbs through the blue, overhanging wall to the left) and climbs through grey-streaked rock onto a white and blue headwall with a faint dihedral near the top.

Without any discernible crux, this 90-foot route is a power-endurance nightmare and has only one spot where you can shake out both hands. The bottom used to be quite wet most of the season, but drier summers have left it consistently drier.

The "toilet-bowl" rest is better in cold temps. Scott Frye, who did the FA, used his drill to enhance a couple grips in the midsection. He always told me he wished he hadn't, but once the deed was done, there was no way to patch the holds back to what they were. Anyway, still a great route. Was rated 5.13d by Scott, Wilbur Nazarian did it quickly and downrated to 5.13c, it held there for a while.

Consensus these days is 5.13d -- but hard-as-hell 5.13d.

Protection 

10-12 quickdraws.