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West Face
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Livin' the Dream T 
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Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Livin' the Dream 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nathan Kutcher & Rebecca Lewis
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,191
Submitted By: chossmonkey on Nov 19, 2007

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Rebecca Lewis finishing the crux on the first asce...
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Description 

Climb pitch one of Oneway Sunset. At the 1st belay go left onto California Dreaming. At the chains for California Dreaming keep going up to the big roof. Stem your way out the roof out onto the face. A #1 WC Rock mid roof and a 3/8" RB at the lip protect the moves out the roof. Follow the thin crack up to the crux and a two bolt anchor. Continue up the crack using a combination of stemming, jamming and face moves. Follow this corner crack system to the top. A belay could be set at the Cali. Dreaming chain anchor but running it all together makes for one excellent long pitch. Rap the route.


Location 

The route climbs the line of the Oneway Sunset Rappel route. Climb pitch one of Oneway Sunset. At the 1st belay go left onto California Dreaming. At the chains for California Dreaming keep going up to the big roof.


Protection 

Double set of mid to small nuts, one set of larger nuts. Double set of cams from 0 Metolius to #3 Camalot plus a #4 & 4.5 Camalot, 3/8"RB, Double length runners for under the roof.



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