Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest 
A Bridge Too Far 
Astro Glide 
Avalon 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 
Bloodguard 
Blotter is my Spotter 
Brokedown Palace 
Burning Down the House 
Buster Cattlefield 
California Dreaming 
Carl's Face 
Carol's Crack 
Dead Point 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express 
Digital Extraction 
Double Feature 
El Matador 
Fractal 
Harkness variation 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids 
La Vaca Solitaria 
Lack of Enthusiasm 
Livin' the Dream 
Man Without a Planet 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 
McCarthy West Face/Hong 
Mr. Clean 
Mystery Express 
No Holds for Bonzo 
One Way Sunset 
Park Politics 
Scottfree 
Some Like it Hot 
Spank The Monkey 
Steal Away 
Tulgey Wood 
Up In Smoke 
Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

Livin' the Dream 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nathan Kutcher & Rebecca Lewis
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,127
Submitted By: chossmonkey on Nov 19, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Rebecca Lewis finishing the crux on the first asce...
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb pitch one of Oneway Sunset. At the 1st belay go left onto California Dreaming. At the chains for California Dreaming keep going up to the big roof. Stem your way out the roof out onto the face. A #1 WC Rock mid roof and a 3/8" RB at the lip protect the moves out the roof. Follow the thin crack up to the crux and a two bolt anchor. Continue up the crack using a combination of stemming, jamming and face moves. Follow this corner crack system to the top. A belay could be set at the Cali. Dreaming chain anchor but running it all together makes for one excellent long pitch. Rap the route.


Location 

The route climbs the line of the Oneway Sunset Rappel route. Climb pitch one of Oneway Sunset. At the 1st belay go left onto California Dreaming. At the chains for California Dreaming keep going up to the big roof.


Protection 

Double set of mid to small nuts, one set of larger nuts. Double set of cams from 0 Metolius to #3 Camalot plus a #4 & 4.5 Camalot, 3/8"RB, Double length runners for under the roof.



Comments on Livin' the Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -