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 ADVANCED
River Wall II
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Arresting Arete S 
Big Big Monkey Man T,S 
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 
Box, The T,TR 
Brother From Another Planet S 
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 
Introducing Meteor Dad S 
Le Diamant E'ternal S 
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Redneck Hero S 

Livewire 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen, 1985. Retrobolted
Page Views: 1,352
Submitted By: Scott Matz on Sep 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Fun in the sun always a good time at the River Wal...
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Description 

This route starts following an arete leaning right, soon traversing left into a mean offwidth protected by the third and forth bolt. The next lead out section can be climbed with little pro up to an 1 1/2". or just ran out to the last bolt (5.8+) just under the roof of Introducing Meteor Dad.


Location 

This is the route just left of Introducing Meteor Dad. It has a two bolt anchor.


Protection 

Climbing 4 bolts to a hollow flake. Gear up to an 1" or so. Caution, place at the bottom of flake (wiggly at top). Traverse back right to last bolt, and this climb shares anchor with Introducing Meteor Dad.



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By Bernard Gillett
Sep 16, 2008

The route described here is Live Wire (not listed on this site), climbed by Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen in 1985. Someone retro-bolted the route in the last couple years (4 bolts at the bottom, followed by a finger crack, and then two bolts at the top -- these last two bolts protect 10 feet of original climbing, as Wilford and Mammen likely finished out to the left).

By Cale Farnham
Sep 29, 2008

Great route, really run-out after the last bolt but all the moves are there! Was wondering why there weren't bolts for this climb at the top, had to share the anchor with "Introducing Meteor Dad". Overall good moves thought the crux was about mid-way up through the left-facing dihedral! Pretty thin hands and smeary feet! 2 thumbs up!

By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 1, 2008

Great start, somewhat exposed, had to place some small gear before the last bolt I got skerd.

By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Nov 3, 2008

Thanks G. I love the finger crack, and the lay backs, but the top could use some work. The last ran out bolt, to the shared anchor of Meteor Dad, they might as well have put another anchor up, since they ruined the original route, and now confusing others.

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 1, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a really good pitch, well worth doing. Almost as good as Meteor Dad IMO.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
May 2, 2010

I agree, this is a really fun pitch, but I still like Meteor Dad a little better.

By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Apr 7, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

There is no way this is 10c, the final move over the roof to the anchors is a little thin for ten. Even if we we're in Eldo.

By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Dec 9, 2012

It's really bad style that this route was retro-bolted. It's a beautiful and interesting line, and never too dangerous. Clipping bolts on this only detracts from the experience. The bolters also tried to force you to climb right, where the natural line obviously stays a little left, where there is plentiful gear and holds. Almost worthy of a chop.

By edward corder
Dec 31, 2012

I agree, Justin, this is a pleasurable trad climb and protects well; no rhyme or reason to sidetrack on a gay adventure.